Interesting article about Dielectric grease and anti-seize:



Use of greases in connection protection seems to be a controversial topic.

Some claim dielectric grease is conductive or abrasive, containing silica that increases wear. (It doesn't contain silica).

The most frequent Internet complaint is that dielectric grease insulates connections, making connections less conductive. Some call pure silicone grease an "insulating grease". The general basis for this claim is in the word "dielectric" used in the name. The word dielectric is assumed to mean the connection will have future problems because "dielectrics" are insulators. Generally, authors predict greases with powdered metal (in slang "conductive greases") will improve or maintain connection quality over time while dielectric greases will isolate connections because "that is what dielectrics do".


For the complete article please see

When a metal to metal connection it made by the terminals in a plug & socket the metal is (or should be) slightly scored to clean away any oxidation. That's is unless we are talking about very low current signal connections in which case they are usual gold plated.

Any grease on the connector should get moved out of the way of the contact area and thus will not take part, and so is not required to be a conductive.

I think a "conductive grease" is just a thermally conductive grease and not an electrically conductive grease.

Everybody - Please stop putting copper slip on every bolt, especially brake caliper bolts.

Dielectric grease on every connector and copper slip on every bolt has proven essential on every KTM and Ducati motorcycle that I have had and should have been used at factory - but then, no LED, canbus, 1290, etc as yet.

Should have said all external chassis bolts only re copper slip, all internal engine bolts secured as per KTM spec.........

Your decision re following KTM spec for external chassis bolts, or not, but I only use copper slip and check them regularly.

It is the caliper bolts that I have used the locktite.
I removed the copper slip from them at the start of 2017. They have been dry since then but last week when I had them off I treated them to some 243 on re-assembly.

What I did note when taking them off is that they were very tight, like the reaction between the bolt and the fork alloy had already thread locked them.
Kind of made me wonder what fun is waiting for me at the end of this year when I'll pull the calipers to give them an end of season clean up.

I still don't like the idea of putting copper slip on brake bolts.
I have just cleaned it all from another of my bikes, hence my first post question why people do it.

KTM’s choice of metal for bolts, from the small tank fairings through the front brake calipers to the large rear shock bolts, etc ain’t great re corrosion and I learnt the hard way that it’s worth removing and replacing every bolt with copper slip - ditto for clutch and generator cases, cam covers and others that require regular or eventual removal.

Cf my post re steering head damper on #2 SDR re what happens if not done.