well today people i had a go on the prilla homo at snetterton , and . . . . .this hurts . . . .
but its pretty f#cking good. and deffo quicker than a sd or sdr for that matter. the way it delivers the power is so smooth and then when the shift light
comes on you cant get rid of it, no matter how fast you change gears. its very planted and goes exactly where you aim
.

so

Get one every now and then I think about going back to a mille

Going to have to be on it to keep up with you and CK at crashfest though, hopefully new shock fixes the hot tear (if it ever arrives )issue and an endurance rear.

£175 tyre destroyed in less than a day-not good.

What tyres were you using dude?

Pirelli Supercorsa SC1 front SC2 rear switching to the D212:



Mullered

That might clean up with correct suspension settings dude.

Parkitt set it up at Cadwell and it was tearing like that on my last tyre, took it back and they said that's normal?!

I'd just go back and say something dude. They did a great job with my shock at Oulton. I'm sure they'd rectify it.

If your tearing a Pirelli you'll destroy a Dunlop dude.

Dunlops are alot more sensitive to pressure and shock setup.

I'd stay with your Pirelli and set that shock up. That's a different tear to your last one. Last one was too much pressure. That one is a bit more of a shock fook up and riding style. There will be a setting in that shock. Just try stuff every session and note it down. I'd start with getting the sag set and taking off a whack of rebound.

One man's perfect setup is another man's nightmare. Just have to try shit.

One thing as well is you can try carrying more corner speed and being more progressive on the gas as you pick the bike up. That kind of tear can start from being too slow at the apex then standing it up and cracking it open. It's torn really far up the tyre so the bike is almost bolt upright when your driving out.

Looking at it again i'd turn it and run it tbh.

But I'm tight as fook.

If the rider sag was 43mm its MILES out ...this will mean compression and rebound will be equally miles out as they have been set to compensate for the high sag

I think considering this the tyre does not look that bad ...its clean on max lean where you would be on gentle throttle I would suspect rebound dampening set very high trying to dial out squat caused by high sag when hard on the throttle

You need a minimum of 3 full turns of spring preload and about 6 clicks anti clockwise on rebound dampening (then set compression to suite)

SAG set first then rebound with compression set last

i would turn it as well , nd this is at snett which is hard on tyres. it is riding style and exactly what i done to a race attack, i then stuck a racetek k3 on and clean as a peach, its got a lot of grunt that bike , and you are tearing when leaving the corner and you are nearly upright.

Thanks for that Guys, we set the sag to 32mm iirc, 8 clicks of rebound and 1 turn of compression. Does more clicks increase or decrease damping?

Ultimately I will have to start again at cadders with my new shock, I would not say I am aggressive with throttle, fairly smooth and progressive.

I did try and get tyre turned by Parkitt but they would not do it.

Clicks anti-clockwise reduce dampening

Centre and side of tyre back up you being smooth
Over dampening to make up for lack of sag, stops suspension reacting as it should ....giving the tyre a hard life

I guess you would have felt it like you were going over lots of little ripples as you were hard on the gas...where the suspension was reacting too slowly because it was over damped

your not aggresive on the throttle mate , you are just waiting until you feel comfortable and then winding it on, if you got on the power sooner you would spread that wear across the tyre, i personally love the way your bike drives out of the corners , but gordons wright you dont carry enough corner speed and are then making up for it. no doubt someone who knows suspension can sort that, but as handling goes . . . . well i would buy one. . . . .but there is a 1290 around the corner , and i do keep looking at the rc8r with flat bars , . . .. .. . . .. .

£9999 is a good price for a 2012 model with APRC, new SD £14k??

I need more experience with corner speed and getting the gas on sooner, part of me knows the tyre is ragged and not sure if I pin it it will lose grip and spit me off. Still learning how to ride after 18 months off a bike.

thats true mate , but you was improving all the time , you just need seat time and it will come, i would seriously try a k3 ,

Not got time just now but.

Stalkers right.

Nick's completely miles off.

You can't sit on the Internet and say specific info like it needs this amount of clicks and turns. Bearing in mind this will have a linkage coz itsnot an old shitter like out sd's.

Shock is out. But riding is out too. If shock was as far out as nick's explaining the bike would be running wide. Stalkers rode it and said it fine.

I'll try and get some info to you but I'm up to my balls in it just now and leave for the Oulton round tomorrow.

At cadwell focus on getting entry speed up and running it through the corner faster on maintenance throttle. Then just before apex smoothly and progressively start rolling gas on and and picking it up. By the time your on the part of the tyre that's torn there you should have been on on full gas before then. This is the art of riding a bike quick. Exits are rolling on and pickin the bike up in a balance of holding the tyre just on the verge of sliding all the way through pick up. Obviously there's a million variables like body position, bar pressure, corner speed, gear etc.

Think if it like if you cornering at 60% grip then on exit whacking it to 99% grip.

The key is to be running through the corner at 100% grip. But obviously the closer you get to the limit of grip the smoother you need to be. Running through at 60% and making lots of mistake will spike it to 90% and you won't notice or fall off. Running through at 99% grip at a higher speed the slightest pressure on the bar, foot peg, etc will make it slide. Faster you go the more all these small things matter.

Lots of riders get away with huge riding mistakes coz the bikes and tyres are so good.

I'd like to help you get this thing working. Just trying trying out get on a trackday together is near impossible. If you can make that Anglesey day before crashfest I'd do it there.

Just need to read Dan's thread ....it was running 43mm sag...the rest is written on the tyre

Thanks for the advice Viking and everyone, I know the basics of suspension. But not enough to start fiddling as generally I cannot feel a difference, everyone always seems to have a different opinion when it comes to suspension and where to go with it.i checked tyre pressures all day and they were spot on.

I don't know if I am riding again before crashfest, Anglesey is tempting but will be a crazy few days of travelling before crashfest, if there is an evening at cadwell I might try the new nitron shock out with the settings it comes with, it has high and low speed damping, I am sure it won't be a magical cure but at least I know suspension will be up to the task.

I get the impression a case of man up, might help too.

Front has had a new compression and rebound kit so don't know if the front is now "too good" for the rear or if that makes any difference.

Sorry to talk about toohomos on here

There's too much to it to write on the net. Nobody can give you advice based on a picture alone etc. You'd need to physically see the bike and feel it and watch the rider. I got ass blasted for a Dunlop tear from Donington everywhere I put the picture up, when Pat Walsh from Dunlop Motorsport had been giving me advice through the sessions on pressures and basically it was the wrong tyre for the temps as it was only 4deg with snow at the side of the track! The tyre only tells so much. You can put a K3 or Compk on and run a pogo stick on the back and it still won't tear. That why K3s always look great coz they're much harder and more resilient to tear. Getting a K1 rear or med compound 212gp or below is a knife edge on setup.

Set your static sags. Then check the rider sags to make sure your springs are in range. That will be the last time you check rider.

Work only with static after you know your springs are right.

Don't fook too much with high speed stuff. I'll send you more on that after Oulton races.

Set compression and rebound so the bike is balanced. Get someone to push the bike on the tank and push hard and watch it move. The bike should move nicely as one. Controlled equally front to rear from vision. That's a good starting point.

Then just work from there.

It gets complicated when you then change gearing, wheelbase and fork heights as it changes the way the chassis works the tyres.

Hence folk make a living out this shit and even Jeremy Burgess and Rossi couldn't get it working right.

All we want is a balanced chassis, stability, side grip, quick turning, ability to hold a line in fast stuff, quick direction change in slow stuff, and not to annoy the tyre so it lasts. An for it to do it on every track in various temps. Not too much to ask eh.

Mine is the R it has no TC, anti wheelie or quickshifter.

I'm using around 40 mm sag on my sdr shock with 10/12 static and bike hasn't gripped so well out of corners

You mean it does not grip well or it never gripped as well as it does now?

No complaints here with 6mm static and 30-32 rider sag on the rear. Almost can't get the rear drifting out of 2nd and 3rd gear corners without under or oversteer on Spa Francorchamps so I'm really pleased with that. Full stock suspension.

Like Viking said, it's difficult to give advice from behind the screen but I watched a lot of Dave Moss videos on youtube about suspension settings and tyre wear. What he usually says with similar tyre wear and sag numbers is that the sag number might be a little too high and therefor you might compensate with stiffer dampening, reducing the working area of the shock and making the tyre do a bit too much work.

It could also be hot tear according to this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JutNhZw1TB0

I've been destroying the pirellis for a couple of meets now.
I'm fairly aggressive on the throttle and like to pick the bike up as early as I can to try and keep up with the I4's.
our track temps are a bit hotter, but our winter temps are similar to your summer temps.
I found pressure to be the main culprit. Hard to tell over a pic but it looks similar to mine which turned out to be cold tear from having too much pressure in the rear. ( small contact patch, not enough friction)
I dropped the rear by 1.5psi and it cleaned up.
Good luck man. I'm still not sold on them, but if you do well in this series, you get free pirellis, so I'm running them and making them work for the free tyres each round.

I found the other day. Might be worth a look.