So I've been having a couple of problems with my 08 SD (DNA box, Mivv pipes, SAS removed, remapped). It's had a high idle randomly for the last 6 months or so. It's not all of the time and it normally stops, it's normally when I'm stationary and mostly when I've just started it. Only a couple of times has it been reving high when I'm riding. I was on a tour around France and the Alps in September and it kept cutting out, I'd have to start it and give it loads of throttle or it would cut out again, this mostly happened when we stopped for lunch then went to set off again, sometimes it would happen half way through a ride, again this would sort itself out. I've cleaned and greased the BGC.

I took it to my local dealer and asked him to alter the TPS, balance the throttle bodies, sort the valve clearances out (I can hear some tapping in rear cylinder) and give it a big service (but without oil/filter change and spark plugs).

Sorry for going on, just thought I'd best add as much info as I can.

He gave me the bike back and said you can't adjust the throttle bodies on these bikes, he's had a look at the valve clearances and they were fine (it's still tapping). And he said he's plugged it in and had a look at the TPS and they're fine (it's still high idling and cutting out).

What should I do now? I have a tuneecu cable, but haven't done much with it. If I plug it in and have a look at the readings, what should I be looking for?

As you can, and I do, adjust / synchronize the throttle bodies, perhaps you need to question what has just taken place?

Yeh that was my thought, I've seen a few posts on here about it but didn't know enough about it to argue with someone that's supposed to know. Is it easy enough to adjust throttle bodies and TPS with tuneecu and a few tools? What readings should I be aiming for?

Balancing the throttle bodies is easy as tuneecu has 2 dials on the screen, one for each cyl, get them the same.

For the tps it's a bit more difficult as it's a pain to do and it requires the clock makers touch.

Mark the TPS with a white marker or white out tipp ex or whatever it's called there so you can get it back where it was if needed.
Warm the engine up properly so it's of the increased idle (at least 4 bars).
Switch off the engine.
Loosen the screws holding the TPS so you can rotate it just.
Turn on the ignition.
Adjust so the TPS so at closed throttle it is at 0 % on the screen. On full throttle it is normally a hair off and shows 99%.
Do up the screws lightly.
Try to start the engine and see how it does, the idle needs to be stable and smooth. If it's hunting the value is too high and you need to back it off a bit.
If it doesn't want to idle smoothly or hard to start it's too low.
If the idle is smooth and you see 0% on the screen it's fine.
Now try to do up the screws without moving it! If it moves you need to try to anticipate how much and do it up so it ends up at the correct position.
It normally takes a few tries to get it spot on but it's not dramatically hard.

Thanks for the help guys. I've plugged it into my laptop and taken readings from cold not running, cold running, 4 bars running and 4 bars not running. instead of telling you what I've found I'll just show you pics.

cold not running




Cold running




4 bars running




4 bars not running




4 bars not running, full throttle (only 93%)


one of the map edit page


when I first started it the revs were at about 2300-2400 for maybe 15 seconds then dropped down to 1540-1620, as it got warmer they dropped to about 1470-1590 constantly moving about in this range. I just want to get a good idea of whats happening before I ring the mechanic back.