I have an 07 SDR which is nearing its 9000 mile service. I used to have a 05 SD and had the 9000 mile service done at Bracken, who had my pants down. I knew the bike had been serviced but wasnt really sure if clearances were checked or what products were used or how long it all took or did the greasy 16 year old devil worshiper that wheeled my bike away get to fumble around with it himself. He was probably on 6 quid per hour and Bracken were charging about 80 quid per hour as I recall, how the fook did they ever go skint?

So anyway, 07 SDR has no warranty remaining. I drove it all the way to Premier at Didcot for its 4500 mile service and wasnt greatly impressed. Used to hear good things about KTM Centre and Hyside but if you hang around forums long enough you always hear bad reports too. Bought my EXC from P&H at Crawley and like everything about them so far but it is still a long way to a non specialist multi franchise outlet.

Dont get me started on Laguna, THE WORST DEALER IN THE WESTERN WORLD, I wouldnt let them service the council wheelie bin in the garden.

So, my thinking, I dont need the stamp in the book. I have always trusted TAGG to prep my track bikes, brake overhauls, bling suspension upgrades etc etc. 40 quid per hour, for a hugely experienced mechanic, racer and business owner is I think a bargain. What, you didnt think I was planning on doing it myself did you? I would far rather pay 40 quid per hour than spend 8 hours fooking up what Tagg could do better in one. I get enjoyment from riding my bike, a little from falling off it but none at all for struggling with mechanical nasties on the fookin thing.

Also, If I buy the consumables as I do when they service my trackbikes I know exactly what is frothing around inside my engine and I know it has actually gone into my engine. Rather than being swiped by some 6 quid per hour mechanic for putting in his clapped out fazer later. Also Tagg will rebiuld my brakes, put new fluid in and clean all my calipers up, better than my half arsed attempt.

So I only put DIY in the title in case the mods want to make this a sticky for other new SD owners, but what is actually required in the 9000 mile service? Who knows someone out there may have a boring enough life they enjoy wrestling with KTM mechanicals in their garage (or front room, Bic)What is the consensus of best oil, filters, brake fluid, brake pads(whatever you say EBC are going in) What should the clearances be and how far out were they on your bike?
Is it worth getting the throttle bodies balanced even though I think all this snatchiness is a myth created by US members and girlies brought up on il4's?

The question is particularly aimed at Klincky and Shade and anyone else that does their own servicing. I know Shade poured as much oil as the Exxon Valdez into his first SD So what should I buy, where should I get it and how much do I get Tagg to tip in?

I do everything myself apart from the valve clearances. I actually think I enjoy tinkering in the garage almost as much as riding my SDR.

If you have a Motobox, then syncing the throttle bodies is a 5 min job with some vacuum gauges. It definitely improves the throttle snatch.

If I understand correctly I can sync your throttle bodies with TuneECU, ordered all the cable bits so shouldn't be long now and then i can pop round with the laptop.

I ended up using the recommended Motorex oil last time as there wasn't much in it pricewise with the other name brands on the shelf, not changed my brake fluid since I've had it but I know it uses DOT5.1, can't say I've heard of anyone saying one particular brake fluid has been better than another but I'm sure if there is an opinion on that somebody will be along to share it soon.

Everything required on the service is in the manual, as is the valve clearance specification.

Shade posted up about some new EBCs a while back which were supposed to be really good, don't know if he tried em yet.

I got a letter from KTM this morning after 2.5 years of owning my RC8 advising me to clean my brakes if riding on salty roads and a free health check if I want one

Unless you mean you can read the vacuum readings between the cylinders via TuneECU and then make the adjustments?

not sure how long you've had that bike jester, but the brake fluid dot rating indicates the boiling point of the fluid, the higher the boiling point the more hygroscopic the fluid is. also, if you track the bike, the fluid becomes more hygroscopic the more heat cycles you subject the brakes to. so basic old dot3 you may use in an old car is pretty stable, it won't absorb much moisture, but it's not for performance either and will boil relatively easily, dot4 is better, higher boiling point, will absorb moisture at a faster rate. dot5 is SILICONE BASED and a completely separate issue DO NOT MIX! dot5.1 is a performance fluid that has a high boiling point and as such a high moisture absorption rate. You should change your brake fluid at least once a year, especially if you race it, track it, or live in a wet or humid climate (so that's almost all of us!). if you don't, the fluid becomes contaminated with water which can cause corrosion of your system as well as decrease the performance of your brakes. it's a pain, it's messy and you risk damaging paint cause the bastard stuff blisters it, but your brakes will be better for it.
just my .o2c

paul.

My valves had barely moved at my 9000 mile service - I was so glad I didn't have to fook around buying shims!!

Oh and I used Putoline, though off the top of my head can't remember if it was 10w50 or 10w60....

My valves haven't needed adjusting in the last 3 valve checks

klink with motobox fitted valve check is easy. do it yourself

All shims had to be changed at 15000mls, (2 were border line) did not check them at 9000mls.