right i have been wonerding if i need to do this, but not had any expereince in balancing throttle bodies before

do i need to balance them , if so what wou people recomend, i know roughly how to do them, can you use the softwear to hone them in or is it best to get a carb tuner etc

also what about the voltage is it best to leave as is or change

many thanks

Just use tune ecu, turn the screw until you get as close a match as you can.....simples

perfect gives me something to do now on my day off

remember, once an increment has been made, rev it up to 4000rpm or so and hold it there for a little while, then let it drop back down. If still out make a change and do it again

ok cool thanks will do, and let you all know how many pieces my engine is in

When ever I'm plugged in with TuneECU I do find that the manifold pressures change quite a lot. Is this just my bike or does everyones do this. Would make it quite hard to balance them.

Klink

Mine tend to stay roughly in the same area as my picture, I will find out later and let you know

Mine stay within 3hpa of each other

hmm I will plug mine in again and take a vid of the changes. Don't know off top of my head how much the variation is

Also when balancing dont let the engine get too hot, if you cant get the job done in a few mins your gonna have to kill it and let it cool down again, you need the engine warm, NOT HOT!!!

Last time I checked mine were around 10-12 hpa

ok, i tried ballanci8ng few days ago - originally, when tuneEcu was connected, my results were IDENTICAL to the ones posted by Ralsy 372-375 front, 393-395 rear. after balancingthe result was 420-423 each, HOWEVER, the bike did not like that at all. she run 'funny', surging on closed throttle, and generaly did not feel right.... i backed out the screw a bit, now running 385-387 front, 398-400 rear, and the bike is running 'normal' again...
soooo....
is it possible that the pressures are actually not supposed to be the same? considering that the rear cylinder runs a bit richer fuel map, and possibly slightly higher temp due to lack of air cooling, could the 20hPa difference (which is really only 5% difference) be there on purpose?? in my head, it is conceivable that the front primary butterfly could be 5% more open at idle then the rear, but i'm not sure...
the manual is pretty useless in this regard, simply stating not to touch it, it will never need adjusting - which sounds like a pile of BS to me...

Hi Smoky
I talked to my Mechanic about balancing the other day. In his words, he starts by taking the throttle body's off and balances them on the bench, making sure the link between the two body's is perfect, the plastic on the link ends wares and changes how they operate the body's in unison. They have to work mechanically when opening the throttle in unison first. Play in the link when open the throttle is no good. That could make the difference on your bike?
I am planing to watch the guy when he dose it on mine. Which is not that soon, I have some miles to go before the next big service.

Did you do a 15 min reset after balancing the throttle bodies?