Breathing the top end is important because it relaeases all the presure built up in the engine and lets the engine rev smoother and removes the thick oil filled air from the engine.

two designs are availabe the first is a basic setup where the crancase breather is removed from the airbox.... generally after the motobox or grim 990 box is installed...

the biggest differance i noticed after the breather mod...

1. how smooth the engine felt at idle and under revs the engine has noticable less vibration

2. how quickly it was gaining revs

This is a mod similar to one i've done on other bikes. When the crankcase builds up presure from piston pulses the pressure in the case builds up to a point were piston movement is slowed, the pressure is released through a vent. this vent is usually pumped into the air box so as to not be released into the atmosphere.

The problem being that the air being pumped out has oil vapour in it, sometimes the reason you get oil in your airbox. this is also the reason the vapour is not pumped into the atmosphere.

The oil vapour being sucked into the combustion chamber then is ignited and burnt. There is simply less oxygen in the airbox and therefore less in the cyclinder.

when you breathe the crankcase, the oil vapour that condenses back to liquid needs to be collected so it dosent hit the road or your rear tyre. eg catch can (which you have to be able to drain.)

BASIC BREATHER MOD

This is an easy mod that smoothes your engine buy allowing it to breathe and giving it cleaner air.

Ingrediants
1 half metre length of hose (same diameter as your crank breather)(I used my old SAS lines as the are the right diameter)
1 Small air fliter
1 T piece to fit in the internal diameter of the hose
1 straight pipe adaptor for the end of hose to the filter
1 blanking plug
1 rubber block off to put back on the air box
6 hose clamps
6 zippy ties

This is a pic of my filter mounted on the old secondary butterfly actuator mounts.
you dont have to mount it here but it does have to be higher than where the T piece is mounted.

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The T piece is set up as follows-
The top hose is from the crankcase, as the standad one is aiming down to go into the air box, its perfect.
The left runs to the new filter either higher or level with the T piece.
The bottom hose runs straight down to your battery box with a blanking plug in it.

Ive used clear line so as the vapour condenses i can see how much is collecting and when i have to drain it.

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Dont forget to put the blanking cap on the airbox hole that is now open.

Ive always noticed a difference in every bike ive done this to, it eliminates big catch cans and is a affordable $50AUD.
Also reduces plug fowling.

ADVANCED BREATHER MOD

Breathing the top end is important because it relaeases all the presure built up in the engine and lets the engine rev smoother and removes the thick oil filled air from the engine.

both tappet covers were removed drilled an tapped, new gaskets and an inline oil/air seperator

Ive already noticed the engine performance has increased and it is reving smoother

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this is the oil air seperator it seperates the oil mist.

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Nice job indy.

For the tapped cover type, Indy and I are going to go over this in finer detail when my bike is done... Put together some step by step instructions.

And if you really want hey may put together a kit for you that contains everything you need all cut to length and ready for assembly... Only if enough people want it though (you would still need to tap you own rocker covers but he will give you the exact detail)

All I need is that part number... It's driving me insane

This fuel filter is all I can find

What is the general thought on running the crank and or rocker cover breathers into the SAS system guys?

ok... i did it ... i got the part number from the Aeroflo catolog and then brought one

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You could also use the latest Suzuki TL1000R crankcase breather/oil separator, TLs have a problem with pumping oil up into the airbox if overfilled or at sustained high RPM, I have the new one on my TLS and never have a drop of oil in the airbox now,
This breather/separator also has an inlet feed for the cam cover, the TLs just have a cam cover breather for the rear cylinder, highest point...
You could T two into one for the cam cover breathers on the SD and just run a filter on the airbox hose,
This would be a very neat installation on the SD I think http://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequent-t ... irbox.html

Just checked the catalogue and it seems to be a billet fuel filter.Indy do you have the p/n.Confussed.Cheers

These all look very professional.
I must say I'm venting my crank case into a bottle cable tied to the frame.
Is there any reason I shouldn't vent the cam covers in the same way?
Also isn't venting the cam covers just a different way of increasing the crank case breather capacity?
We know the crank case is tiny on the LC8 motor and suffers from pumping losses so just increasing the breathing to that space is a good thing no matter how its done: is that right?

I run the basic one. Nice and neat. Works well and the bike seemed to rev free'er

Might look into the advanced style once the detailed how to is done.

Can your buy the mesh by it self because if that is all it is I will make my own.Would something like stainless steel wool do the job.Can you give me an idea of what the mesh is?Indy if the filter works as good as you say then there would be no harm in connecting the vent's to the SAS because no oil would reach the SAS valve's and cake up the exhaust valve.Those SAS valves sure do suck[free vacum pump supplied by KTM I reckon and I know it works].Cheers

to mr bear and mr linga

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Legend Indy! Thanks for the confirmation. I'll order today and hopefully get it installed first thing next week!

Thanks Indy.Appreciate your work.Cheers

Cheers for that Linga

Why not just use wire wool/gauze in the hose and position it just before the std valve?

Reading between the lines this looks to me like another one of those jobs thats being made complicated for the sake of it.

The advanced one Indy shouted to (unless he can't work his cap locks) doesn't seem a huge amount different to the basic one gains wise.

What I'm interested in is connecting it to the SAS system. This seem very simple to do but I'm unsure of how with would work on track at constant higher revs and wide open throttle pulling so much pressure in the crankcase.

Guys... The vacuum 'pump' from the sas is a passive pump... The negative pressures are not that great... It is just that it will help remove the excess vapour out of the crankcase and heads.

I was talking with silver bear and have come up with a tidy looking and effective way of hooking up the heads & crankcase to the sas and an extra one way valve for good measure

So do you reccomended running no one way valve on the crankcase breather as well?
I was wondering why there was no one way valve on your cam breathers... Is that why mate?

I have remoded the crankcase[cc] breathing to my SAS valves.I moved the KTM one way valve as close to cc as I could and have ordered a Morosso air oil separater P/N 85496 which will fit nicely under the front of the air cleaner with a clear plastic drain tube to somewhere excessable.From the separater the plumming goes to both SAS valve via a t piece.The rocker covers have been tapped,plummed an will go into a double ended filter as Indy has suggested.When I recieve my parts I will test it and measure the vacuum with a gauge.I will still have another options to try after that.Running the head breather hoses with one way valves into the separater so everything goes through the SAS valves.Cheers

Patience Colonel and Indy.Waiting for parts.If they don't turn up next week you won't hear from me until the end of Feb.I'm flying to Christchurch NZ[rugby world champs,sorry MRZ]to meet my brother and do an incredible motorcycle road trip up to the Paeroa M/C Street Race's.Two and a half weeks of amazing road's and scenary and no pot holes.Cheers

I'm just in the process of moving it down now... I think Ducatis run the same thing I think I posted an article on it...

That's a very good point. I'm certainly planning to remove mine completely regardless of whether its working properly or not as a 2 way flow of air just sounds like a better idea.
That way both the cam cover breathers and the crank case breather can flow air in either direction.
I'm missing out the oil/air separator as well and just feeding everything into a vented and filtered catch tank.

I've had a likely problem with my bike in the check valve failing (twice now) and causing pressure build up...
Photos and more tonight but I will be ridding it entirely, my mechanic said it can be run with out it but there will be a loss via the dirty air being run up and down the long pipe...
I may try and shorten it and put the cath tank in the battery box

Just doing Lingas mod of moving the valve down the the crankcase. One tiny problem......

That silver bullet shaped valve that sits in the left side of the bike on the cc hose isn't a one way valve. Got mine off here and its empty. No idea what its for then? Doesn't look like its been modified in any way, still fitted with factory clips.

Off to look for a supplier for a one way breather valve now. I take I we're looking for the one with the weakest spring we can find to make the mod work. So it blows gases up the pipe easily but blocks them returning?

Just thinking about it. I'm not sure a ball and spring type valve would work. Starting the bike up and holding it at say 4k rpm the pulses from the pipe are fast. I don't think a spring/ball could recover in time to close and reopen. It'd need a fibre flap like what's in the SAS behind the plates. That would move miles faster. Dunno if anyone makes one like that though.

I've checked mine and it is a one way valve...
I'll post pics tomorrow when I remove it and dissassemble for cleaning.
I've had it off before with oily emulsion al over it.

I clean mine after every service.They get quite dirty and the seal edge of the viton oring does deteriate.If you pull the oring out carefully you can put it back in upside down to use the fresh seal edge if I recall correctly or just replace it.Cheers

Sound like a PCV valve to me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1Jb_sfpZsI

If you want a HP or two with better ring seal you will need a vacuum pump.

I do know with the crankcase been vacuum pumped it can effect the oil mist in a motor & can starve the small end pin of lubrication mist if it is not oil pressure feed, I have seen this on the Raptor 700 motors with crankcase vacuum pumps.

http://www.starvacuumpumps.com/about/
http://nutterracingengines.com/racing_o ... facts.html

Excellent post!

I did the basic breather mod. I used the old SAS parts for tubing. Is it okey to have the filter routed at a 90 degree angle? What is the best location for the filter to be routed? I think the filter would look better tucked in closer to the radiator overflow or nearer the front for a cleaner look..?

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I like the idea of this.
This maybe a really stupid question, but where abouts does the basic system connect to the crankcase? Does anyone have a picture please.

you can see it coming out of the top of the ignition cover



joins the airbox here

My breather sits over the 'y' of the y piece so that if it ever does drop oil out the breather it gets burnt off rather than dribbling onto the back tyre or electrics...

15mm o/d tee piece, cant seem to find yin

Does any one know the inside diameter of the SAS lines or the breather hose?

Cheers.

had a look in b&q before I posted could only find the copper type and the sticky out parts were to short is anyone runing the breather wthout the tee piece /drain I have done other bikes like this no problem

mmmmmm done the basic yin < after I had the bike set up on the dyno bike would not hold a steady throttle and at first I thought I had a slipping clutch as in up in the higher rpm range when I cranked the throttle on it would hesitate then pic up put the breather back in and all is fixed. anyone else found this problem, the only things I can think of is either the hot air was not escaping faast enough or it was running lean?

I've just done the advanced mod on my SD. The crank has a catch tube and its own to air filter but I have added another system. The 2 front cam cover breathers, 1 from the rear and the 2 oil tank breathers now plumb into one breather filter to air. I am amazed how much air seems to move up and down the final tube Is this what others have found who have done the mod??

The one that goes to the oil tank needs to stay connected to keep the oil tank and crank pressure even unless both now vent to the atmosphere

The oil tank and cam covers all breathe to atmosphere through same system. Crank is separate but still vents to atmosphere

I don't have a catch can for the advance, just have one for the for the crank breather. I did notice a fair amount of oil coming up the lines and that was just running in the garage. I was relying on gravity to take the oil back down. If it doesn't work I might also have to rethink the internal tube diameter. At the moment its 8mm for the cam covers and oil tank. Might have to work an an oil separator in to it as well.

Ok I have the same problem as Silverbear with the advance setup. Oil is coming up the pipes from the cam covers with the air and pissing out of the filter. My guess is I either need a oil separator or a wider internal diameter pipe. 8mm just doesn't allow the oil to run back down past the escaping air. Going to have to have a rethink. Does anyone have a link to a site that sells oil separator in the UK? I'm wondering if going up to 10mm is wide enough for pipe work or if I need to go to 12mm?

Can I suggest hooking up the front cylinder to the tank again... Indy had that still connected, he tapped two new holes with an oil air seperator (metal gauze fuel filter will work too) hooked up. Remember the filter needs to be at the highest point of the plumbing.
every now and then you need to de grease the breather filter as it will block up and start to suck oil up to the filter while running.

But if my breather does drop oil, it goes straight onyo the exhaust manifold and is burnt off before it can drip onto things like the back tyre

I was beginning to think that reconnecting the oil tank to cam was the way to go. I have one on the rear cylinder as well though. might have to block that off until I can source a oil separator.

How would running the 2 oil tank pipes into one front cam breather with the other connected to a rear cam breather with both vented to air work. I know I will still need a separator in that setup.

If anyone knows where I can buy an oil/separator in the UK give me a heads up. My google searches are coming to nothing. I'd like to stick with this mod but without a separator it's not going to happen.

Rocket industries australia, the part no is on the first page of this thread

So what small air filters are people using for the simple mod?