This is a great way to do the front brake also.

Cheers for that I have always done it open the bleed nipple pump the clutch method, but this is clearly te way to go.

However if I have read it right are you not pushing what fluid is left in the lines back into the MC? as such contaminating the fresh fluid with old?

this gets air out of the system near to the lever but what about if you change your front sprocket and some fluid came out when you removed the cover near the front sprocket. there is another bleed nipple located near the front sprocket but i still have sticky gear changes sometimes and sticky changing from neutral to 1st, i have to shift into first quickly, if i try to shift into 1st gently i can hear the gears grinding. is that my clutch needing to bleed or are my clutch spring gone?

Are you saying that your clutch slave cylinder is leaking?

nope just removed it to change my sprocket. but there is a grinding when putting it in first. so im wondering if its my clutch plates or bleeding....im feeling the bike pull forward when i start it in gear as well so the clutch is dragging.

Try bleeding the clutch from the slave up first, releasing both at the master and at the lever.

Sounds to me the slave cylinder is gubbed. There shouldn't be any clutch fluid behind that cover unless its leaking by the slave piston.

Perfect time to upgrade to an Oberon.

Why did you remove the slave cilinder to change the front sprocket?

Ok, back to basics- what cover and what sort of oil?

the sprocket would not come off without taking off the slave cylinder.... if i didnt have to take it off well i did already so maybe some air got in there.
it still has the same clutch fluid. i use yacco fully synthetic oil, european brand. 15w-50. there was no leaking oil at all. just removed to change my sprocket.

so changing fluid and bleeding clutch should fix this condition?

I think this could help also:

My 2005 SD has done 15.000 miles by now and I can hear the clutch slave click into place regularly when going into first. |Better save then sorry so I ordered a replacement slave:
http://sigutech.com/index.php?option=co ... &Itemid=36

If I take off the old slave does engine oil leak out? Or can I just replace cylinders and bleed clutch without loosing too much engine oil?

Thanks,
Marc

@jmann,

Thanks I will pay attention to that.

regs,
Marc

This is really great and easy way to bleed clutch, though beeing a newbie it takes some time to understand everything. I've took the pictures to make the process more obvious and added few steps for bleeding the master cylinder

P.S. I didn't remove the clutch lever. Not sure if it's really necessary. KTM workshop manual says nothing on this
P.P.S. I've found all the syringes (40-60 ml seems OK) and tubes in the chemical shop as parts of drip systems etc. Costed less than $5 here in Ukraine

This is the master cylinder with a reservoir and bleeding nipple cap (1) with wrench nut (2)


This is the slave cylinder (next to the front sprocket) with the bleeding nipple cap (1) and wrench nut (2)


1. Remove master cylinder cap. Using syringe, suck out as much fluid as possible from the master cylinder (the one on the bars). If you're replacing the old fluid with new blood, you need to suck it out of the system through the slave cylinder's bleed nipple. Just attach the appropriate tube with a syringe, open the wrench nut on the nipple and suck the dirty fluid out. Sorry, no picture for this


2. Fill 2nd syringe with fresh fluid and attach via pipe to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder (the same one you used in the previous step to suck out the old fluid). It's important to ensure the tube sits really tight on both syringe and especially the nipple, so that it doesn't go off when you start pushing the fluid upwards. Keep the syringe high and let all the air in the tube to go up.


3. Loosen bleed nipple (8 mm wrench) and use syringe to push fluid (keep the eye on it to make sure no air goes into the system) into bleed nipple. Control the master cylinder fluid level. When master cylinder fluid level is at correct height, tighten bleed nipple.


4. I also recommend bleededing the master cylinder after the previous step. Connect the smaller tube (approx. 4mm diameter) to the master cylinder bleeding nipple and put the other end to the reservoir next to it


5. Pull the clutch lever, open the nipple with the wrench (is it 5mm? I didn't have this small one in my tool kit). If there's air in the cylinder, it will go to the tube with some fluid. Still keeping the lever pulled, tighten the nipple. Loose the lever. Repeat the procedure few times till there are no air bubbles coming from the master cylinder when you open the nipple


6. Correct the fluid level in the reseirvoir adding a little or sucking a bit with a syringe.


7. Clear the cap and seal and put them in place


8. Enjoy your clutch


Would like to have this guide when I have done my first clutch bleeding
Let me know if something is wrong or missing

Nice post mytskaniuk

Nice one mytskaniuk.

I'm wondering whether it is really cold where you are or whether you are really fussy about fingerprints (the gloves).
Maybe you work in a kitchen

Also notice in your photo's the split on the rubber of the mirrors - don't you just hate that, they all seem to do it.

Good writeup.

I'll say again, why is this not stickied? Sod it, I'm gonna put a link in the must read thread....

Magura sells a clutch bleed kit that has 2 syringes, hardware, & fluid for like $22.00

http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-magura-clutch-bleed-kit

their photo shows 1 syringe but the kit came with both.

Yep like $30 with shipping,,,,,,

Honda dealer won't cut me any slack on the price either,,,they all want their $10 shipping,,,just been wondering if there's a cheaper place to buy it but that seems to be the price for that kit,,,I didn't realise it had the two syringes thought it was just one,,,,,,

Just an update with my experience. Tried it with syringes 50ml, never really got enough pressure (too large piston size ?) and tubes I had weren't a good fit - oil seemed to leak from bleed nipple thread etc etc - my own cheapy set up..... Maybe for all the time & mess better to buy a kit.

Anyway didn't take any notice of the bleed nipple on slave cylinder till later - put a tube on that pressured it then released the bleed - bingo - tube shot off - oil everywhere but nipped bleed up quickly and seems to have done the job - so my suggestion try the top bleed first if there's air in it. If you're just changing oil and no air in system can feed reservoir and pump it out the master cylinder via a simple tube & drain the 'conventional' way till clean new oil comes out.

Alan.

Thanks for bumping this thread. I'll be doing this today on my lunch break.