I bought the PCIII and thought I'd measure the O2 plugs for anybody wanting to make their own or cut the plug off their loom etc

The 327 Ohm is as measured, probably fit a 330 Ohm Resister

yes, I do. find the advrider thread...google "990 EFI" site:www.advrider.com
Start at the last page, I put the details there, and it's easternbeaver.com, and he's really good, he ships the stuff in a day or two, and it's quick, from Japan. Get some of the good adhesive lines heatshrink while you're there, it's useful.
I'll ...wait, I've got it in a file somewhere...



on this page:


Thank you for measuring the resistance. I'll add it to my O2 sensors file.

Only the USA versions have the canister - you need one of those to make a resistor plug when you do the canisterectomy. I foolishly bought one before I realised my UK/AUS version didn't need it. I just put it here in case someone comes here later and needs to know.

The advrider thread...I thought I had it saved, but no. I think it's this one, I'll check the print-out at home tonght:

Cat, I found your thread. I think anyway.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthre ... ost8009681

Righto. Now I need to be sure about a few things. I'll number the questions/statements/confusions so that anyone who wants to chip in can reply directly to a specific question.

1) The values Sam measured from the plugs is PowerCommander O2 sensor eliminator plugs. A.k.a the Lambda Sensors in the exhaust. I'm pretty sure this is correct. Please correct me if I'm incorrect.

2) The ADVRider thread discusses "canisterectomy" which is removing a box of charcoal or something similar mainly found on U.S. bikes. UK/AUS bikes do not have a box of charcoal. I'm pretty much sure about this too.

3) Points 1) and Points 2) have nothing really in common apart from that "it's a good thing to do to the engine". Is this correct?!

Now switching onto my "idea".
4) I was hoping that the erratic low RPM behaviour of the SDR could be attributed to the ECU trying to "make nice exhausts" below a certain RPM. The ECU uses the O2 Sensors in the exhaust to try to be as "good as possible". If I eliminate the O2 sensors with "plugs" (either home made or bought from PowerCommander), the ECU should think that everything is OK and settle at a certain fuel ratio. Therefore eliminating or at least minimizing the erratic fuelling in the low RPMs..?! Short version; eliminate O2/Lambda sensors means smoother fuelling at low RPMs. Is this correct?

5) If the theory in 4) is correct, has anyone tried it in practise?!?!

6) The PowerCommander Plugs are P/N 76423016 (Fits kit: Fit: 510-411, 925-411(2), 928-411(2), 513-411, 514-411) from this page:
http://www.powercommander.com/powercomm ... ories.aspx
And at USD15 I don't think there's much point in making my own from Eastern Beaver (but I think I'll need some other goodies from there!)

7) I'd like to give the plugs-only a go, without the PowerCommander as I don't particularily need more power (at the moment), and I feel a bit cheap. But I do hate the erratic running at low RPMs.

I thought the akra map should have eliminated the O2 sensors anyway?! Does this negate all the above points...!?!?

How many points did I score!?

Thanks!!

Rightyho... a bit of "progress".

I've now located both the O2 sensor wires, and cleaned my side stand off that horrible chain wax the previous owner has used. Funnily the sidestand now flips up without sticking half way.

Eitherhoo... Here's the "parts".

The resistors are 0.25W, of 330 ohm and 1K ohm. The 330 ohm ones should in hindsight be larger 1W ones, because the 0.25W ones get hot. Hopefully not too hot.

The front cylinder's cable is located behind the coolant expansion tank.


Radiator at the front, oil tank below. Air box behind.



This is how I'm testing the stuff. The blue taped resistor, the 330 ohm one, slots into the top of the connector (top being where the locking mechanism is) into the orange and blue cables. The bottom resistor 1K ohm one, goes into the black and red-green cable. The top ones are for the heater element, and the bottom ones are for the O2 sensor input. NOTE the 0.25W 330 ohm resistor gets hot. Hopefully not too hot.
Note!! Cat has recorded different colour wires! He's recorded orange and white-black for the heater element, mine are orange and blue. Cat - can you comment on this, please?!

Another angle of the front connector:


The Rear cylinder is located here

Behind the front cowl next to the battery. It's the 4 wire cable that's marked with the red tape on the picture. O2 Sensor wires are white, white grey and black (standard narrowband O2 sensor).

Here's the resistors connected:

Again, the blue-taped resistor the 330 ohm one goes into the "top", into the orange and orange-white wires. The red-taped, 1K ohm one goes into the black and red-brown wires. Warning, the 330 ohm one gets hot.

Another angle of the rear cylinder one.


There's no FI error light with the resistors plugged in (there is a blinking FI error light without the resistors).
The bike starts and runs just fine, but I didn't feel any remarkable difference whilst letting the bike idle in the garage. I'll go on a test ride at some point, hopefully today.

I think I need to redo my throttlebodies....

Oooookay... Experiment is at a very annoying stage at the moment.

When I start the bike there's no EFI light, but after a good while (1km ride?!) the light comes on permanently and when I stop it starts blinking. The sequence is 1 long, 7 short, pause, 1 long 8 short. I can't find out what it means. HEELP!
I thought the resistors had blown, but that wasn't the case. They're all intact, even measured them. No worries with that. One thing that could be is that they get too hot.

. It's not inline-four smooth, but it's a lot smoother. I'll need to ride it a bit more before I can vouch that, though. The ride impressions were like it wasn't an improvement initially, but when I got back I noticed that I was coasting down the residential road in 2,000 rpms at quite smooth throttle. There's a bit of jerkiness, but I think I need to revisit the throttle balancing.

More to come...

Joe, what you're telling me, with a lot of grace (in the future, scrap that!), is that the way I've inserted the resistors isn't conductive enough.

I.e there's not enough conducting surface between the connectors in the cable and the way I've inserted the resistors?

What I did, before the test ride, I did this to the resistors:


Looking something like this:


Now... my question is, why do you think there's not enough conductive material between these two?! Is it the capacity of the resistors or is it the lack of conductivity between the connectors and the resistors..?!

Help me out here, Joe... expand your theories. I need to figure this one out!

Jocke, here within lies the problem without tangibility, without me being able to feel how tight the resistor is in the connector is for the most part impossible for me to make a sound judgment, I am only guessing of course that the intended or original male connection pins are flat and the wire is round, I suppose that if the round wire is a tight fit then let me stand corrected and I would be wrong to assume that the problem is with a poor/improper connection, I do not believe the the contact surface would be the issue as long as you have a good connection. Going off of the assumption that the other pic's I first viewed,, I assumed you were having poor connection problems.

Now my question is if a space of time has taken place with these installed without the FI light, if so then a simple re installation and ecu reset will indicate if you are having suspected connection problems.

Why do these resistors appear to have different values, I thought they would be the same ones in both applications.

sorry... I have not read the whole thread and this could be over me little head...

I dont think it was a wast of time, as it helped me.)) not great for you but we are learning from it. one thing I would like to see is if someone else gets error FI light. I have heard that other people have had success with this mod?? who?? and what was the result??

I think you wasted time making them as I found PC111 models on sale for $15-£9 ish on a site, just search "02 eliminator". If this mod shows FI light why are they sold for SD? i have asked on anther site what mods have been used and have worked but not had much success. so they dont work or people wont share?? I am more than happy to share or help and dont plan to treat any mod as a secret unless I can make a mint from it)))

I dont like the sound of it too. May as well have your mum on the back to tell you to slow down

Totto, that's quite interesting, but I'd only like to use it when I practise high-wheelies. Otherwise, I'd like to switch it off. But soulnds like quite a clever thing.

vertigo66, please share your findings with us.

What bothers me right now is that to my knowledge the PCIII is only plugged in between the ECU and the injectors. And as such, I believe that the O2 Sensors plug into the ECU and that the ECU should give a fault reading regardless of if the PCIII is there or absent. I.e I don't think that the PCIII should be able to fiddle with (read: silence) the O2 sensors' presence or not...

Anyway, might solder my new kit up this week/weekend.

Oh, and yes, for those of you in the U.S DynoJet are selling their PCIII O2 Sensor Eliminator Plugs for USD15.... in UK they are GBP37... and for those who can't be bothered to do the currency conversion; GBP37 is about USD51.86... yes.... that's USD36 more than in US.

Fixed it! the 1M Ohm (that's 1000K Ohm) resistors did the trick. The bike is sooo much better to ride. The engine is sooooooo smooth compared with how it was. Did a 40 mile run and the bike's totally changed. Nice power, easy to ride in town, looong wheelies, nice pull out of corners... YAY!

I'll post pictures and a more detailed how-to tomorrow probably. I was thinking of starting a new thread so this confusing and speculative thread can wither a bit... Any thoughts on that..?! Same thread or new one?