You will have weeping on the left underside of engine, next to the hydraulic hose (by your left toes when on bike)
You will also lose pressure on the clutch lever and lose fluid from the reservoir on the bars.
NOTE: Clutch Fluid will wreck your paintwork !!!!! don't get it on ANY paint, or flooring etc etc.
1. Attach a bleed hose onto the bleed nipple on slave cylinder and remove the reservoir cover and inners(on the left side of your bars.)
2. Undo bleed nipple about 1 turn (lefty loosy, righty tighty)
3. Pull lever in, you will see fluid coming up the hose and out of the system.
4. tighten the bleed nipple to seal the unit.
5. Loosen slightly, pulling the lever slightly (to 'hold' the pressure...
6. Loosen more as you pull the lever and then once fully pulled in, tighten bleed nipple to 'hold' the pressure.
7. Repeat until the system is fully bled and you only have air coming through.
Unscrew the 13mm bolt on the 'banjo bolt' at top of slave cylinder.
Remove banjo and hose from the slave cylinder. Allow to drip onto some kitchen roll (TAKE CARE)
You can then crack on with removing the slave cylinder unit
1. Remove the 2x 8mm socket head bolts.
(see slave pic, marked as 42)
2. Remove the bolts marked 25, 3 of them on the cover (see cover pic, marked as 25)
3. Remove covers and slave cylinder.
4. TAKE CARE with the rotation retaining pin on the clutch push rod. DO NOT lose it.
5. Take apart the cover and re-build using all components. (see cover pic, 22, 21, 20, it makes sense although you need to work out it comes apart... i thought it was 1 unit)
6. screw the 3 (25) bolts back in to complete the cover.
7. Line up the pin in the clutch push rod (not honrizontal)
8. push back on the slave/cover.
9. Replace the 2 8mm headed bolts.
10. Check torque settings (i don't know them, i'm guessing approx 25Nm.)
11. Using 2 new copper crush washers replace the banjo bolt. (1 washer next to each join)
12. Tighten to recommended torque 13mm spanner (again i don't know, do it by feel, guessing 40Nm)
Your system is now back in a 're-built' state.
Last step is to 'bleed the system with new fluid.
ONLY recommended fluid is 'Magura Blood' however i believe any Mountain biking hydraulic fluid is the same (don't blame me though)
KTM recommend reverse bleeding using a syringe, but i've never done this, and did mine with normal bleeding last week.
1. Fill 3/4 full the reservoir with blood.
2. release the bleed nipple on slave cylinder. (ensure you have bleed hose attached.)
3. Pull lever fully.
4. tighten bleed nipple and release lever.
5. Using same process as above, continue this. (pull lever a bit, loosen nipple a bit, pull more... then tighten off)
6. Eventually after numerous pulls and bleeding you'll start getting pressure. You'll see more and more fluid and no bubbles (NOTE : You will need to add fluid to the reservoir ever 2-3 pulls on the lever)
7.You won't get full pressure as you will have air in master cylinder.
8. Perform same process on Master Cylinder bleed nipple.
9. You should now get full pressure.
10. Check fluid level on the reservoir.
Finally, tighten up both bleed nipples and fit the cover and inners on the reservoir on the bars.
Test bike
I found that mine needed another bleed. The vibration will get the air to the top. A 2nd bleed for me works perfectly now.
