Getting ready to remove my front sprocket and swap it for a new one and I can't find any info on what I need. I'm assuming a gear puller? Does anyone know the torque specs for when the new one goes on? It looks like the slave cylinder has to come off too.

So the lock washer and a couple bolts and it comes off? Sweet.

Really?

Since the interwebs "search" thing doesn't appear to work in your area, get a Service Manual already. They have pictures in case the words parts don't work out for you.

Sheesh ...

if you pull the sprocket cover off you'll probably find the sprocket is loose anyway..... has been on virtually every one i've ever looked at!

bend lock washer out of the way undo nut and sprocket falls off - no puller required..... I think on Klincks we loctited as well as the washer being bent over on instal...

You would think the info would be easily and readily available but I couldn't find anything on the forum and neither my repair or maintenance manual specify how to remove the front sprocket. They only mention how to check it for wear and tear. Thanks for the info anyway guys.

The only problem with this job is that the feeble SD rear brake will not lock the wheel...... making it very difficult to torque the sprocket nut to KTM`s specified setting..........
Don`t be tempted to put the bike in gear either unless you want to damage your gearbox

Impact wrench the nut off, pull old sprocket off, put new sprocket on, impact nut back on....done.

Yes of course you could if you had one

I think I just left the bike in gear...

I made a gear puller out of a piece of angle with a couple of bolts through it, and through the holes in the original sprocket. I locked the rear wheel using a piece of timber through the swingarm / wheel (leave bike in neutral)

Have fun!

I lube my front sprokets and output shafts with moly at install. I see many photos of bikes with rusted output shafts.

Quick true story. A bud thought his mid 80's 750 Kawasaki GPZ transmission blew up on a ride. He was sitting on the side of the road reving his engine to beat the band. "Shut the sombitch off" I yell. I knew the problem cause I had an earler GPZ. The nut that held the sproket in place came off and went its merry way. Then the sproket worked its way off the out put shaft splines and sharp edges of the sproket were sitting on the threads...cutting the threads off when he was reving it to the moon. We borrowed some fence wire and wraped it around the output shaft and made it home..another day. Guess what went in my tool kit. Yep, extra nut and washer.

Good thread lads, my 16t front just arrived so i'll be doing mine this week. Cheers

sprocket on my SD was loose when i got it too ! do ya think factory installs em loose for some specific reason ?

i pried back washer and tightened nut - rode bike a few days - checked sprocket (Loose again) - pried back washer - tightened nut - rode bike a few days ( Loose again ) i think i went through that process 3 times till the nut and sprocket stayed tight -

16/40 soon to be 16/41 - let the good times roll

Well mine went on without too much hassle, why is that washer bent anyway? Took the slave cylinder out of the way too, made it a lot easier especially as i left the chain on, just loosened off the back wheel. Cant wait for a blast tomorrow to see what its like!

Then KTM front sprocket has a rubber cush. I'd always mount the washer and bend it over. I've found my nut has worked lose more than once and the washer was all that prevented the nut coming off. I also lock tight the nut now.

Cheers mate, was going to locktite the nut too but was worried about trying to get it off afterwards. No fear of the nut coming off on mine anyway, serious corrosion on the shaft there was, plenty of wd40 first!

Really not trying to be a smart ass...you never know what skills other have or how many adult beverages and or what ever one has had while they wrench on there bikes. I try to error on the safe side because on a bike if things are not sorted, it could kill you or someone else, as a wingnut knows. There are all sorts on this site.

@ jayspillane: Don't worry about the rubber cush-drive looking thingy on your OEM sprocket versus the Vortex. Though I haven't done my SD's front sprocket yet, I ran into similar looking sprocket coating/shroud on my Sprint ST and replaced that sprocket with an aftermarket with no rubber coating/shroud and have experienced no issues. I think the rubber is there to make the chain/sprocket interface run quieter or some such. I certainly don't see it serving any other purpose.

Not sure what is going on with your sprockets locking washer; but, if it is beat up bad, it should be replaced. They don't have to be beautiful to work, but once these thin washers have been bent too much or too many times they may disintegrate/break and you will run the risk of the sprocket bolt loosening. At that point, Very Bad Things can and usually do happen

Also a little concerned about someone's post concerning "spinning" sprocket (OR ANY FASTENER) on with an impact wrench. I suppose that is fine if your impact wrench is accurately adjustable for the torque it exerts during tightening, some are. However, most impact wrenches I have used were not. Some had a coarse adjustment, but even those broad ranges could not be trusted unless you had a constant and regulated source of air or hydraulic pressure. This power source consistency problem should not be an issue with the electric models, but they too must have an accurate tightening torque adjustment before you go "spinning" ANYTHING on with one. Again, VERY BAD THINGS can happen if they don't! This is why I generally prefer using impact wrenches to remove fasteners only and a manual operated breaker or clicker torque wrench for installing them.

100Nm, but you will be lucky to get more than 80Nm with the feeble rear brake on the SD....... Unless... you put the front wheel against a wall and get a 120Kg friend to sit on the bike while you torque it up