Some master of understatement posted something along the lines of "It helps to have small hands when removing and installing the front cylinder's SAS inlet and block off plates...." OMG!!! This operation was a ROYAL PAIN IN THE ASS!! The only way this could be made truly easy would be to remove A LOT of plumbing (oil hoses, radiator hoses, etc...) and many of these pieces have permanent/crimped clamps, another PITA. However, I have a couple of helpful hints (some of which I have read in other threads and some not) for easing this really painful process. These all assume you have already removed everything else you would normally remove in the airbox and SAS replacemnet scenario (fuel tank, coolannt recovery bottle, etc...). Some of these steps may seem extreme, but they REALLY help you keep your sanity:

Have REALLY good lighting.

Have a good set of long needle nosed pliers handy.

Remove the engine mounting bracket on the right (throttle) side of the bike.

Disconnect the top (return) hose running into the oil tank (should be no or very little oil in there if the engine has not run in a bit, as it is a return line). This hose just has a spring type clamp, release it and pull it back off the spigot. Be patient and use rubber jaw protectors on any pliers you use on the hose and it will eventually come off without damage. Hint, once I have broken the sealing tension on a hose to the spigot it's mounted (accomplished gently twisting the hose); if there is room, I prefer to push rather than pull it off its spigut/mount (this releases rather than increases surface tension/diameter).

When that top oil hose/line is disconnected, pull it back towards the rear of the bike to rest/be pinched between the large radiator/coolant hose and the frame rail.

Clear all vacuum lines, electrical wire, etc... out of your way.

Now you should at least have a pretty good tool and hand/finger access and line of sight on the front SAS plate and retaining bolts, so let's get on with it!

The right tools will definitely be a help, combination 8mm wrenches of most any stripe, long handled and ratcheting would be great! Might us a little grease or magnet to hold the nuts in place on your tools as you try to replace them on the blockoff plate install. Once in position on the cylinder head (work from the bottom up with your left hand), the SAS blockoff plate will stay where it belongs reatively easily with only light finger pressure. Might could use a light coating of grease to hold it up there for you and free up both hands, but I thought that may react with the rubber seal, so I didn't. Silicone grease would have worked fine though.

On securing the blockoff plate, I started with the top/front bolt, Once it is in and tightened just a bit; the blockoff plate will stay in position and free up your left hand to help get the botom mounting bolt in place and and started straight. I used the needle nose pliers to get the bolts in place in the plate/hole and my fingers to hold them there and get them started in their threads. Don't get in a hurry! Be careful not to crossthread either of these litle bolts in the soft aluminium of the head material or it will be all over but the cryin'!

Hope this is helpful! Motohooligan Performance plates sure look slick once in place and the rear cylinder's is soooo easy to install!