Ok so I fitted my LSL bars and so thought I'd write something up for those wanting to do the same.

Firstly you'll want to know where to get them, they don't seem to be available in the uk so you're probably going to order them from here

EDIT: If anybody wants silver bars let me know as I originally wanted black so maybe we can do a deal on you ordering black and swapping for my silver bars for a small cash incentive from me to you.

Ok, so now you've got the left grip on and the throttle is on, first thing is to stick your bar end on the throttle side and make sure your throttle grip is lined up correctly so the rubber doesn't rub on it and hold the throttle open, now you can line up the other controls next to it, I didn't want to faff about with drilling holes as I wanted to move the levers further round than they were anyway to make the pull more ergonomically correct and to do that you also need to rotate the button housing so I did the tried and tested method of chopping off the plastic nubbin on the inside of the button housing and sticking some electrical tape round the bar.

I initially chopped away as much as I could with a pair of wire cutters and then cut the rest off smooth with a knife, a stanley blade or box cutter for the americans would have done the trick too, I just happened to have a sharp lockknife to hand, I tried to do the 2nd one straight in with the knife but it didn't seem to want to come easy so I went back to the wire cutters to get things started again which worked much better.

Don't put too much tape around the bar, I got a bit carried away first time and then couldn't screw the housing closed properly, a single wrap of tape was enough under each side of the housing, I tried to do it to exact width so it can't be seen easily once the housing is mounted doesn't matter if two pieces of tape overlap in the center as it's the outside edges that do all the clamping.

Now you put your levers on, I wanted to rotate my levers more downward to maintain a straight line from elbow to fingertip when etending for the clutch so I left my button housing less than tight so I could rotate both lever and housing as required and then pinched them all up, the clutch side is pretty straight forward.

On the brake side I found that the brake line connection fouled the top of the fork as the metal hose part from the banjo was rotated to much towards the fork and so I undid it just a pinch so that I could rotate it away from the fork slightly to give me more space to position the lever, word of warning though, you only want to crack the seal a tiny amount and then only a tiny bit of fluid might escape under pressure but it won't leak, it's similar to bleeding where you just crack the nipple a tad to let the air out and close it back up again. The connector will try to move back when you tighten it up so be sure to have something wedged in there to stop it moving back to where it was as you tighten the bolt fully again, or turn it a little more out than you need to give it room to move back a bit, making sure you're not undoing the bolt at the same time by keeping your spanner on it.

And that's it, job done, just sit on your bike and feel good about the new sportier feeling positioning.

Also when your doing the throttle housing check it on full right lock as the cable s can hit the tank if not pointing slightly forwards.

My first post in months!

Instead of running the cables in the usual way over the top of the fork and down between the yolk and headlight mask, I ran mine around the outside of the fork and between the mask and fork so they're now somewhere underneath the bolt that holds the mask on, it seemed the tidiest and obstruction free way.

I know I promised pics on this thread ages ago but never did get round to it, I still intend to add some at some point.

Great stuff, probably a damn sight easier on the bike than me trying to hold the bugger down with my foot on a table

Pictures finally added

I do like those bars a lot!!! just a shame they dont do them in orange or id have some I think

Awesome info!! Now just need to source the bar!!! Thanks Jester

4 days!

Thats a worry ordered mine last monday still not here!!!!

OK, heres aload more pics for Boney whos having problems with throttle housing and brake lever positioning, hope these help dude -

Arrived, fitted, LOVE em!!! Thanks to everyone who posted info on these

Really like the look of the flat bars they look great and aggressive, I'm a bit worried about the body position, I love the upright position as it is.
Can anyone who had the flat bars fitted please post a picture of yourself sitting on the bike holding the bars, so I can get an idea of the seating position. Just wondering how much of a difference the flat bars make.
Thanks!

I fooking love my flat bars! Does throw you a little bit further forward but nothing I had a problem adjusting to.

It does throw you a little further forward onto the wrists but this is only noticable in traffic! If you ride road only stick with standard bars, but if you enjoy trackdays and do more than a handful a year then get the flats, they put you in a much better forward riding position for track use!

A quick update for those with 07 onwards bikes.

After discussions with another member Boney I think, there is no room between the headlight mask and the fork with the newer masks and so you have to put the cables through the original slot, he said the routing didn't look too bad or putting too much stress though so all should be good.

Also there doesn;t appear to be as much clearance between the tank spoiler and the throttle cables on full lock as there is on the earlier bikes so in order to get levers where they were wanted the steering lock for the right hand side had to be adjusted out a couple of mm.

I've got some pics of it which I'll get posted up