Hey there racers and track day advanced riders/coaches. Need some good advise and examples of body position for tracking the SD. I had a pretty good BP on my 600RR, but this is a much different bike. I've taken the SD out on two track days, and I'm still struggling. I scrapped the shifter in T8 at JGP, and have scrapped boot toe sliders. So I know I'm not doing something right. I'm 4 sec. slower on the Super Duke that the RR. That is a lot.

Thank you for any help you can share for aggressive riding an upright naked bike.


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hehehe

I'm no expert but I watched a lot of the SD Battle bike races and XR1200 cup to get an idea of "proper" mandlebar BP.

However I've also been smoked by guys on lesser nakeds and their butts never left the seat.

Here's a good thread on it:

and another:

Lots of old school racers hardly move on the bike. Even Jonathan Rea doesn't move that much on the bike compared to a lot of riders. He has a very lazy style but is obvioulsy fast as fook! I ride my 990/1290 in a very similar style to my sports bike on track. It is just my hands are in a different place. The one thing I have noticed with the 1290 is some kind of tank grip is essential! There is very little to lock into or at least it feels that way for me. I now have Techspec Gripster Snake Snakeskin on the tank. Anyway, so yes I still get just over half my arse off the seat, try to get my head down near my hand and drop my elbow straight down (not out). I know the 1290 has lots of grunt but on a lot of tracks a well ridden 600 is still going to give you lots of problems. They won't have the drive out of corners but they will go around those faster corners quicker, it is just the nature of the beast. If you are dragging your toes then you probably need rearsets and maybe get more of your weight to the inside of the bike. The more weight there the less lean angle you'll need. Hope that helps.

Thank you gentlemen.

Rearsets are a desire, but not in the budget. So...I will hang off more for now. I wish they had a stiffer set of aftermarket springs (front and rear), so until those become available, I'll try to dial up the rear a bit. May add some comp. dampening too. Those together should help keep parts off the tarmac.

BP is not the only factor that sets the lean angle. So, meanwhile you're saving for a new set of rearsets, ask yourself if you're really exploiting the full width of the track. Sometimes a half of a foot makes the difference.

Ok.

- Widening your lines (checked)

So let's see what else we have.

- Turning the beast faster (applying harder and more decided counter-steering force would result in a lesser need of leaning angle)?
- Adding more weight to the inside of the turn (more body hanging off the bike)?


This one last point was the only pet peeve I've had with the beast since the very beginning (I also come from an RR), because I couldn't position myself back enough to avoid twisting my body, because the lack of room when hanging off. I'm not very tall (almost 6") but i like to be seated really backwars to feel secure enough to handle turns from side to side and still in (a quite reasonable) control of the bike. And my best way to solve that was to install the . Now I have the room I didn't have with the passenger seat, or with the other regular passenger cover.

I can provide you as well with a vid explaining in detail how to hanging off the bike, just in case you think you may need to review and/or compare what you're doing with what Andy Ibott does. If you think you're doing it allright, then it would be useless. In fact, you actually may be doing everything right, and it may well occur that the only answer to your question is; the beast is not an RR.

Glad to be of any help.

Cheers!

Add LSL Drag bars for more room to hang off.

Also the SD has a shit ton of engine braking, stop letting off so soon and brake later.

I had the same problem coming from a 1000rr to the Duke.


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These bars should make a huge difference!


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Thanks for the Pics. Looks like it made a significant change. How does it effect turn-in? Also, are those adjustable forks? As in Pre-Load?

Your ex RR got higher rearset so it's normal if you hit the boots with the same BP.

Your style is nice, but not perfect. Looks like you are a litle bit inestable because you don't push enought the fuel tank with your exterior leg.

If you do this your body has got a lot of liberty and you can take your body out of the bike. For example this SD Batlle guy, look where is is knee, leg, etc (This guy has an amazing style)



And if you are inestable you need to find the stability taking the handlebar harder. Doing this the bike turns worst and you get up your body... look this guy, his position, his head "in the middle" of the handlebar.





Your avatar looks like the first or second rider?

Thanks Edorta. Yes sir, I will work on this tomorrow. I need to open up that "triangle" between my inside leg, and get much further off the bike.

I did raise the rear sag up a bit. We shall see what improvements I can make this weekend. It would be nice to reclaim the 4 seconds I lost.

Hotbrakes,
I reviewed the GoPro video. I was at max lean at the apex of T-11 and began fueling. So, the rear slipped, and at the angle there was no recovery. Basically I ran out of Talent and tyre. LOL.

I have some Bonamici Rearsets ordered, a replacement T-Rex slider coming, and I am trying to figure out which handle bar I want to go with. I like the LSL Drag Bars that Scuba is using it, but not sure I want to go that far over. We'll see...

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Ugh....lol