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Superduke Racing. Thundersport Rd 6- Rockingham

Viking

Viking

2013-07-31 23:08:00 UTC

Latest web report is up....

Viking

Viking

2013-08-01 05:25:00 UTC

good read Gordon

Viking

Viking

2013-08-01 23:02:00 UTC

Cheer man.

Motor is stripped out the bike already. There's def more power to be had from what i've spotted so far

Colonel_Klinck

Colonel_Klinck

2013-08-02 19:12:00 UTC

maybe a flow job and bigger throttle boddies ? my biggest fear would be upsetting what you already have I had a bike tuned once and the mid dropped out of it unless you kept it above 6000rpm

Viking

Viking

2013-08-02 22:52:00 UTC

There's no point really. It'd be a lot of money for not much in return. It's not an R, so there's no point stressing the base motor to try and make it like an R. Every penny has to go on tyres and fuel and entries. No point having a 135bhp bike on shagged rubber

It's always been a good strong motor. It's apart now and it looks excellent. Head/valves are a bit carbon'd up and valves need recut but bottom end it bang on. Shells look like new, crosshatching is still on bores etc.

Just a basic stock refresh and get clearances bang on. Clean everything p and get velves recut and it will be making as much as it's gonna make. Dyno is booked for two weeks tomorrow.

Colonel_Klinck

Colonel_Klinck

2013-08-03 07:41:00 UTC

It may be a slightly agricultural engine but they do take a spanking well. My old one was still looking great at 50+ miles. I should have sorted the valves in retrospect and she would have probably done another 50.

Viking

Viking

2013-08-03 08:26:00 UTC

I was thinking that last night when I was stripping it.

The bike lies for weeks on end, then starts and idles up to temp and is into a race or test session. Crosses the line, gets shut off in Parc ferme, and sits till next race weekend. It's either idling or flat out. Handles it well for it not being a typical race engine.

I think warmup procedure helps. I always let it idle to 80 deg then shut it off and let it sit for 20- 30 min letting the heat soak through everything so it's all equally up to temp by the time race time comes.

It had done 9500miles when i bought it then I did 1000 road miles before it turned into a track bike. It's maybe only done 11500-12000 miles at the most now. Bit of a refresh won't hurt though and at least it'll be peace of mind if I do stay with it for another season.

Colonel_Klinck

Colonel_Klinck

2013-08-03 10:31:00 UTC

I meant to ask you what sags are you setting for track m8?

Colonel_Klinck

Colonel_Klinck

2013-08-03 10:57:00 UTC

They move about a bit depending where it am fella.

The front is between 30-28mm static and i'm back on 9.5 springs. Currently on 28mm- 4turns in from fully out. Had been running 29mm with only 1/2 turn in from fully out but it was losing feel at the front coz the air gap was holding it up more than the springs. Added 3.5 turns but that only gave it 1mm less sag so shows how much it was down on front end. With more preload you have to push the front harder in the corner, like go in hard on the front end and load it up. But it feels lot more controlled when you do this. Travel ring is 15-18mm from bottom, but 10mm of that you cant use so 5-8mm in normal bike world.

Rear is the one that makes the biggest difference. Back on standard length R shock with 180 spring. Running 10-15mm static, but even 1mm is a big jump. Start of the year i'd been on 14-15mm but I found as I got faster and was getting on the gas harder and earlier it wouldn't hold a line on exits. Once your exiting and on the gas its mostly all rear that controls how the bike turns. Currently on 12mm static. But that'll be different depending what wheelbase your running. I'm on about middle to 2/3 back.

Forks are at 13mm showing up through Nichols. On a 190/55 rear tyre all year but just moved to a 195/60 so fork heights might move a little from there.

Think the way to go is a 170 rear spring actually. I think the bike feel like I needs to be sprung a little softer at the back, but to do this i'd need ride height adjustment to control how it turns on the gas.

Moving to the 195/60 KR108 slick might give move grip and help the rear load a bit more and sort that out though.

Viking

Viking

2013-08-03 12:32:00 UTC

So you only go on static? I'm on 15mm at the moment on the rear. 2/3 of the way back on adjusters on 17/40 gearing.

Ducati Pete

Ducati Pete

2013-08-03 17:37:00 UTC

have you had your r shock revalved clink, when I run a 180nm spring the rear feels strange, on the 190 its too firm but predictable, I hope to get it revalved I run 10-12mm sag on the shock, I think there's too much rebound on the shock even with it wound right out and thats where the weird feeling is coming from and maybe the 190nm spring is helping it rise up a faster

Viking

Viking

2013-08-03 17:42:00 UTC

I'm only about 14 and a bit stone in all my gear. 190 would be way too hard for my weight.

I am going to get the shock revalved over winter. That's if I don't buy a ZX10 to race with next year

lawman

lawman

2013-08-03 17:49:00 UTC

16 1/2 stone in my gear I could do with dropping another 10 lbs though

Ducati Pete

Ducati Pete

2013-08-04 09:37:00 UTC

Post missing.

stalker

stalker

2013-08-20 19:55:00 UTC

Nice report mate.

I see you are selling the superduke and going 600 now though?