2010 990 Ongoing Problems - Help Needed

I've had the 2010 990 Superduke for almost 5 years now. We've had a love/hate relationship. I loved it at first, but for the last 3 years I've hated it, and after today, I now really hate it.

It uses oil. No surprise there, it seems a lot of them do. In Scotland in 2017 it used 700 ml in 800 miles. In Austria in 2018 it used 850 ml in 1000 miles. I thought this was excessive. Thoughts anyone?

For about 2 years now it's had starting issues. I used to have it on a trickle charger off and on (shared between 2 bikes), but now it's on it's own dedicated CTek charger. This time last year at MOT time, I asked the garage to put a new battery on it not knowing how old the battery actually was, might have eben been the original. They put a Leoch one on it (cheap crap imo). Long story short, it flattened the new battery in the 7 miles home from the garage. Charged it up, took it back, and the garage put a new one on it, but kept the bike for a few days to test it. That one went flat on a test ride by the mechanic. They put this down to 2 bad batteries. Put a third one on, it didn't go flat, so I brought the bike home.

Did a few day rides after that, and no problems in Scotland on a 5 day trip last August, the bike was put away after that and basically hasn't moved since. Tried to start it 2 weeks ago in readiness for this year's MOT test, one turn of the starter then stopped every time I turned the key. Bought a Yuasa battery last week and it fired straight away. Kept it on the charger until today. Fired no bother this morning to take it for the MOT test/service. Picked it up after the MOT test, and decided to take it for a little run to blow the cobwebs off it and myself really. Did about 25 miles in total, including about 3 stops at family's houses.

On one of the restarts, it fired but I got a Soft 32 and DAT 101 (I think they were the codes) on the dash and the clock reset. After the next restart, it fired, but the battery light stayed on for about 3 seconds after starting, then went off. Then about a mile from home, I noticed the FI light and the battery light were on, then I noticed the fuel light came on even tho I'd filled it up this morning. Then about 5 seconds later, the engine stopped, back wheel locked up (as it would), and I coasted to a stop with the clutch lever pulled in.

No ignition lights, no rev counter pre check, nothing. Had to phone my son to come out, and we started pushing it up the hill to get it home, I don't know anyone with a van. Thankfully a kind dude with a box van and a tail lift stopped halfway up the hill, and loaded us and the bike, and dropped us off at home. Massively grateful to him considering I've recently been diagnosed with coronary artery problems. I think that hill would have finished me off pushing it to the top even tho my son was doing the majority of the work...

Now I've put it back on the charger for about 3 hours. Tried the key in, still no ignition lights. I even put cables from the KTM battery to the battery of my DL1000 I have parked next to it, still nothing.

Installed TuneECU on to my current laptop to see if I could get any error codes (I put a map on the SD using TuneECU not long after I got the bike using my old laptop), but it's saying ECU is not responding. Not sure if this could be a driver issue though as Windows said the drivers I was trying to install from the download weren't as good as the current ones.

So, anyone have any ideas why everything is dead, and have I fried my ECU by riding with the FI, battery, and fuel lights on for about 5-10 seconds???

Man, I hate this bike

Andy.

Frustrating but not terminal. first you can find all the answers on this forum, trust me i did. You can have several problems at once and each one has to get solved. Your electric problem most likely is regulator/rectifier. Fried wiring down by your battery, greasy connectors get hot and melt. I eventually cleaned every connector,hard wired the regulator(no connector), replaced loose/worn out vacuum hoses, replaced cracked throttle body rubber sleeves, had a plugged spark drain hole that caused the plug to short when wet, replaced plugs, general maintenance, replaced throttle cables with tuneecu reset,throttle sync, 15 minute reset after every change. The bike is perfect now about 6000 miles since finishing the renew. '08 SDR

I had a similar issue but it would kind of charge. It turned out to be a loose negative battery clamp. I would also get a multimeter on the battery with the bike running. Red to positive and black to negative and meter set to 20V DC. Start and run the bike and check that the battery is getting sufficient voltage; should be around 13V and no more than 15V or you will roast the battery.

The regulator/rectifiers like to collect garbage and moisture in the connector. Check and clean that. Look for any signs of corrosion (white or green powder). Look for any loose wires in that area related to charging system. Our charging stuff is in the absolute worst location on the bike. Report your findings. Also maybe jiggle some wires with the multimeter hooked up to see if the readings change a lot on the multimeter.

Don't hate the bike, it's likely to be a fairly simple issue - in order of likelihood:

1 - Check the earth cables for one of the terminal eyelets being broken free from the cable and sporadically making contact - don't just do a visual check, cut back the outer sleeve to be absolutely sure that the cable and connector are good,

2 - Check the reg/rec (see rebuild manual) and disconnect and clean all respective connectors - if faulty, or even if not apparently faulty, replace with one of these https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/cata ... +rectifier 'cos they can fail whilst riding due to vibration and/or overheating,

3 - Check generator output (see rebuild manual) and disconnect and clean respective connectors particularly the big brown one which may have partially melted internally.

Plenty of experience on here of exactly same symptoms with very simple solutions - search Soft 32 Dat 101 on here - unless your unlucky like me and experienced all of these plus the dreaded broken wire/poor connector/failed minor component in wiring loom that are almost impossible to trace.

Pint of Guinness says it's a simple fix.

Thanks for your replies, I appreciate them all.

I'll go through as many things you mentioned as my limited knowledge will allow tomorrow. The ironic thing is my dad was an auto electrician, so I never got involved when I had electrical issues (mainly on my cars, only been biking 10 years) as he would normally sort them, but he's no longer here, so I'm now stranded for fixing problems myself.

I have a pdf repair manual for the bike on my laptop, time to get scrutinising it to find out about earth cables etc, and I'll get cleaning connectors. I did a search before I posted (honestly, I did ) and saw R/R mentioned on a few threads with starting issues, and a pal of mine also said the same (never had a KTM but had bikes for a few years of different ages). I'll go price one up in the UK now.

Forgot to say and no idea if it's relevant, but the headlight still comes on when I turn the key, but nothing on the dash.

Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted as I go, but I'm definitely not talking to the SD at the minute

Andy.

The ongoing electrical issues are exactly that, ongoing. The trouble with the bike is that it is so freaked good when it is good that it causes you to go through relentless frustration when it is not. If it were a pile of shite bike you would have ridded of it a long time ago. I too think that a simple recheck and and tightening is in order and a multimeter used in its most primitive functions will tell you all you need to know. There is a huge saving grace to this debacle, you have a V-Strom that will quickly make you forget your problems and take you anywhere anytime you choose. Best advice hang onto the DL1000.

I just sold my fourth V-Strom and now fingers crossed will not need another for at least ????