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steeeve66

steeeve66

2012-05-26 18:28:00 UTC

Changed the coolant today on my '07 SD, judging by the brown, rusty water that came out it hadn't been done in a while.
I have a question tho: having gone to all the agg of jacking the front up by 50cms to fill it back up - how will I know if there isn't any air trapped? It's a daft question I know but what should I be looking out for?

Started it up after the change and all seemed well topped the 'compensating' tank to about half way between min an max and it doesn't appear to have moved...

Cheers in advance,

S

Colonel_Klinck

Colonel_Klinck

2012-05-26 19:14:00 UTC

You will know if there is a bad lock when you see the temp gauge hit the top and the temp light come on. Mine has done it to me twice and on both occasion I had the front wheel nearly 40 degrees in the air. Just be careful when you first ride the bike. Keep an eye on gauge and check coolant level in rad.

Blackduke77

Blackduke77

2012-05-26 23:39:00 UTC

I just changed mine about a month ago and I couldn't manage to get the fron wheel that high. There is another way to purge the air from the system. Undo the bottom screw a so it can pass air through, then squeeze the big radiator tube on the left hand side of the bike 10-20 times. When there is no more bubbles coming out of that bottom screw then the system should be free of air.

steeeve66

steeeve66

2012-05-27 11:25:00 UTC

Big thanks guys, just been out and all seems cool (forgive the pun)

Black duke; by bottom screw do you mean the bleed screw on the left side of the rad?

Why is working on the SD such a fag? Doing anything on my FZS is a doodle by comparison. Think I might invest in a decent bike lift to make stuff like this easier.

Colonel_Klinck

Colonel_Klinck

2012-05-27 12:08:00 UTC

No I think he means the screw down by the water pump that u use to drain the system. Easy to spot as its the only one with a crush washer.