So I replaced my battery and reg/rec 10k miles ago since I had the soft dat error codes. I replaced the RR with another OEM unit (should have gone mosfet) so I'm wondering if it's the same issue again.

The other day my bike died while riding it, I had to bump start it while rolling in 3rd on the freeway. Once it started back up the gauges stayed dead for a bit then came back on like normal, after that I was unable to start the bike. The cluster would do it's sweep like normal but when I thumbed the starter it clicked and turned off, after that I was unable to turn the bike back on until I left it on the trickle charger for a few days (it gets put on the charger every day).

Here is a video I took, I'd rather be told I'm an idiot than waste hundreds of dollars on a reg/rec and battery.

Check the wiring on the fusebox under the seat. One tends to become a bit loose and gives similar symptoms.
If that fails check the wires on the back of the instrument cluster. It has a small plug and tiny pins, same story bad connections. Clean with contact cleaner and reassemble.
If that fails it could be the rec-reg but you should be able to test that with a multi-meter. I looked at your vid and I don't think it is reg-rec. My money is on the loose connector on the fusebox.

Someone posted that up with pictures, do a search. I also did an explanation how to take the dash apart, not difficult.

Given total loss of electrical power, not just to clocks, check earth connections from battery - symptoms indicate battery not charging and slowly discharging after trickle charging.

After 10k miles, could be time for new battery and/or reg/rec, possibly generator, but doubt it - check simple things first.

Thanks guys, hopefully I'll have time this weekend to tear into it.

Voltage supply issue, either dash/instrument circuit board or plug connection to the dash/instrument. Make sure all of the pin connections at the plug connection are okay. Did this start after that low side or was that even you?

Also check connections to the starter relay on the side of the battery cover - mine came loose and caused similar symptoms.
Good luck

Checked the connections behind the mask and they're all snug and clean. Same goes for everything under the seat and the chin fairing.

Using Tune ECU I saw the battery was at 11.4v when on, after starting it sits between 12.9v and 13.5v. I'll get the multimeter out and get a real reading and test the reg/rec.

Check all battery, starter relay positive and earth wiring/connectors.

I think most have pointed to the more obvious possibilities ...

FWIW - IIRC, the bike's behavior is likely to be the same (or should be ... ) regardless whether the cluster is connected - UNLESS there's a short causing this, that exists at the cluster's connector/cabling, inside the cluster, etc. In my experience, the 990 cluster is nothing more than a display - the 990's function or operation isn't dependent on it (I ran at the track once without it). Easy enough to test if the cluster itself is in some way the culprit (doubt it - but possible) - just remove it, and see if the problem persists.

A friend of mine had this clock thing with his SMT, turned out to be a bad cable at the contact module where the key goes in.

on my bike, the needle wouldnt sweep and when running the cluster wouldnt work though it was still backlit i knew the bike had a weak battery but it still started no problems i ordered a new battery and replaced it and now everything works as it should

It's the battery. Replace it and tighten allconnnections down under and Sofie's your aunt all will be better.

Now the bike really runs like shit. Sounds like it's alternating between firing on both and one cylinder, gauges and lights are pulsing when it's running.

didn't even make it out of the driveway heh.