AGRO!
2013-01-14 02:42:00 UTC
2008 with 7000 mi on bike, lost all fluid in over flow tank in last maybe 1500 mi changed oil recently and no noticiable waves or ripples on oil filter. No noticiable leaks on ground or hoses or radiator. Should i top off and ride, possible damage?? or replace water pump seal and shaft right away???
Thanks
AGRO!
2013-01-14 05:09:00 UTC
Sounds like the water pump seal but I would check the radiator cap first it might need replacing..
If there wasn't any signs of water in the oil it has to be the rad cap. Maybe!
Have you had the rad cap off lately? If you have check that the rubber seal on the rad cap is not crimped.
Colonel_Klinck
2013-01-14 08:30:00 UTC
Good suggestion, will check cap and replace. Reading up on this, seams like people replace hoses and remove radiator and flush possiable sand out then replace pump seal and shaft. A lot of work and cash for a low mile bike! Should I really replace the hoses and clamps, if so, who makes them for the SD.
Thanks
Bert
2013-01-14 09:20:00 UTC
Have a read of Kevs book it has a lot of great info http://dc528.4shared.com/download/7VX-Z ... od_Boo.pdf
Stratkat
2013-01-14 10:30:00 UTC
Don't bother replacing hoses. If you are going to do the water pump seal then yes flush the system out. Personally I'd top off the expansion tank and see what happens but I'd think you are probably looking at a WP seal.
Colonel_Klinck
2013-01-14 11:53:00 UTC
Do you have the service history of the bike?
Maybe the coolant was replaced by someone who did not know that the front wheel needs to be in the air to prevent air bubbles from getting caught in the system.
Heating and cooling cycles cause that air in the system to be replaced by the coolant in the overflow tank.
So, I would do what Klinck said... top her up and see what happens. It might use a littlebit more but should stop after that.
AGRO!
2013-01-14 14:19:00 UTC
Post missing.
Doon
2013-01-14 23:39:00 UTC
Thanks for info. Will top off and ride it. Got a CJ design pump kit today so will be ready for that job. Will skip hoses. What kind of clamps, regular automotive stainless steel, or special motorcycle specific type? Got a 1/4" drive Matco torque wrench today for all engine bolts. Do you guys torque every bolt when doing motor work. I have worked on bicycles and cars my hole life never used torque wrench except head bolts or wheel related bolts? Bought a 1/2" drive torque wrench for moto wheels couple years ago, last month had new tyres put on the guy used a swivel head ratchet beaker bar and just cranked the axel nuts down. I asked him why not a torque wrench, he said torque wrenches don't work and are shit and he is a racing mechanic. The 1/2" I got is a Protool from Granger and was over $300 us guess I will continue using it?
Stratkat
2013-01-14 23:46:00 UTC
Having just gone through this, I agree with the add some more coolant and see what happens. If it continues to disappear, go get a rebuild kit. The first time I drained the oil, I could not really tell from the oil if there was anything in it, so I put it back together, assuming the radiator cap. The second, just 250 miles later, it was very clear that the oil had coolant in it. I did the hoses with new silicone hoses while I was at it and that was by far the hardest part of the whole process and I would not do it again or recommend it unless you 1) wanted the pretty orange hoses really badly or 2) had a real problem with a hose. The seal itself was not that bad, once I got the screw eye in the ceiling and the chain hoist for the lifting. The old shaft was really worn, on comparison, but I was at 15k miles and it had probably been doing it for 1000-1500 miles before it finally got bad enough to turn on the overheating light when stopped (but it went off when I got moving). I saw no sand in the system. 2007 model. I have pictures of the coolant and old/new shafts if you want to see them.
SDNerd
2013-01-14 23:58:00 UTC
Post missing.
SDNerd
2013-01-15 02:04:00 UTC
Try pulling your oil screen filter on the right hand side to see if there are any signes of water.
Do this while bike is on its side stand so you don't get any oil spillage.
websch
2013-01-15 03:31:00 UTC
Just read most of kevxts book. What dedication. Holy shit I'm Overwhelmed! My wife has a 2010 adventure as well thats 3 990s in the garage that need all that stuff done. I thought Mountain bikes were expensive. Gonna take a while to get the cake for all these mods! O -Well, I swear my first ride on any of my bikes was worth the entire price.
SDNerd
2013-01-15 03:54:00 UTC
Here is a good link to rebuild your WP, I also have a cj's kit arriving in a few days for the rebuild.
Mines not leaking but are going on a 4000k trip in four weeks so im be cautious, 23000k on mine though.
Will post up my findings.
http://www.ktm950.info/how/Orange%20Gar ... _pump.html websch
2013-01-15 13:33:00 UTC
Post missing.
SDNerd
2013-01-15 17:32:00 UTC
Post missing.
websch
2013-02-15 02:45:00 UTC
Well Unfortunately I haven't had time to ride the Moto since I posted problem, Until today, got new Bridgestone S20's mounted and fired the bike up. Once warm went to check coolant level after I had toped it off and there it was, coolant drops on the lower right side faring. It was leaking from the hose and clamp that is nested near the radiator and goes into black plastic part, thermostat? Any way, it was the clamp and glad to have this figured out. Love the S20's felt excellent on the twisties.
Thanks Again
Stratkat
2013-02-15 02:53:00 UTC
websch
2013-02-16 16:07:00 UTC
After my last trackday (feb 02 2013), my bike started to lose water.
I checked today and it is losing water like crazy
checked oil tank and oil is changing colors (water on oil)
I guess I can rule this as WP failure correct?
Where is good place to buy a kit in the USA?
Tnx
Weber