I've got into this problem recently on the Superduke R..before that some brief info on the bikes condition..its around 2 years old with 10000KM on the odometer.

the problem is that i can feel some hesitation when turning the handle bar from left to right specifically in the mid section/stroke. its scary to ride it now as i often need to over input during handle turn from the straight position to overcome the stiffness but then the steering suddenly loosen which causes the bike to over steer .

so need some advice from you guys so that i can pin point where is the problem.
- Handle Damper? <-- main suspect
- Steering Bearings?
- ???

So far i've tighten the steering head screw but the issue is still there.

[Update]
The handle turn hesitation is partly solved. I've re positioned the handle damper mount and suddenly the drag is so much less. but i can still feel some more drag when turning..

But now i'm faced with the erratic idle again. The engine will die out every time i pull in the clutch. Sometimes the idle will hover at 3-4k RPM and most of the time it will be at 2k rpm if i'm lucky..it rarely go lower than that. if it does then the engine will die out every time i pull in the clutch. but no issue when i give it the gas, it still goes like a rocket ship just that the idle is unpredictable..its damn annoying!

a few days a go i saw the FI light blinking quickly 6 times which from the manual it says throttle position sensor circuit A is too low/high.

I've done the BGC blow dry and cotton swabbed the male connector with alcohol solution but still the same.

what's next? replace the regulator/recitifier? adjust the TPS? do a re-map and 15minutes reset?

Bike details:-
Odometer: 10840KM
Model: Superduke R
Year made: 2011
Modification: FMF Apex Slip-On, secondary butterfly valve removed, Akrapovic Map re-map by dealer

[UPDATE]
Rusty head bearing is the caused for the handle turn hesitation

Could be two things. Either damper or steering head bearings.
To find out remove the damper and try. If it's gone the damper is the cause, if it is still there it is in need of new bearings.
If you are prone to have a wheelie from time to time and land it badly the bearings could be goners.
Also possible is that something came undone and rubs, check all nuts and bolts.

lets say is the steering damper, is it serviceable? change of fluid and seal?

whats your tyres like flat centers make them feel like that aswell

the front tyre is fine. i'll get back on this once i sorted the fuel pump oring. accidentally teared it apart when changing the fuel filter. need to wait for replacement

Updates on the first post..damn idle problem again..the fueling is really shit..

Check your clutch switch first.

isolate the problem, remove the damper and see if the problem is still there. its probably the bearings, SDs love to wheelie and it takes its toll if you land em hard. mine lasted 30k and they were pretty notchy at that point, i totally replaced them and the wheel bearings as well.

i'm guessing what i need now is an ECU reset, remap and do the 15min to recalibrate the ECU again. its been a while since the last reset and the frequent short ride and changes from RON95 to RON97 fuel must have mess up the ECU calibration.and i've just noticed it yesterday that the chain tensioner block is cracked, the one attached to the wheel spindle..i wonder how it got cracked? just another part that need replacing..

60010081144 WHEEL SPINDLE REAR CPL.

KTM's are not for everyone......but you knew that already

Just some information sharing on TuneECU cable purchase..

I bought this cheap OBD2 cable from ebay
KKL VAG-COM 409.1 OBD2 USB Cable Auto Scanner Diagnostic Tool for Audi VW SEAT
http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/261347142998 ... 1439.l2649

hoping to save some money instead of buying the one with TuneEcu in its item name such as this one
TUNE ECU DIAGNOSTIC INTERFACE CABLE - TRIUMPH KTM APRILIA BIKE TUNEECU
http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/TUNE-ECU-DIA ... 53ed8a0fc4

but be warned, as what they said. you get what you paid for. the cheap version that i bought from China uses the CH340 chip instead of FTDI chip which is not compatible with TuneEcu. They didnt include that detail in the item description.

so if you are having trouble installing the FTDI driver most likely your OBD cable is using the CH340 chip. Only way to confirm this is to let window automatically search online for the driver.

I had the same erratic idle/stalling. Tried everything, BGC, dealer synced TB's and tried a bunch of stuff. They did find that the fuel filter O rings had disintegrated and replaced them and the filter. Still had problems.

My wife has a F800S that are notorious for crap idling as well. Upon researching her problem I found that it can be fixed by adjusting TB butterfly stop screw. I still have not fixed her bike some two years later but you better believe I fixed my SD right away and it worked.

Pull the left triangle cover off the air box. Slowly open the throttle from the grip. Both butterflies should begin to move at the same time. If not, loosen the lock nut on the culprit and adjust the screw so they do. IIRC it takes a small Allen key and a bit of patience. This cured my low insufficient idle immediately.

The high idle could be attributed to a partially blocked injector. Replace your fuel filter (~$100) and run some good injector cleaner through.

now i'm guessing there is a wire short somewhere..the bike stalled when i did the 15min reset just now. and the P0122 error also appear if nothing happens when i press the starter buttons. the FI light will do the 6 short flash. when i switch the key off and on again the bike would start. when that happen the TPS voltage reading will go way below the 0.6V on 0 throttle. must be some broken wire..

Found the issue with the heavy steering. The lower head bearing is all jammed up and rusty..how can it get rusted that bad so quickly?

to top it of, the lower head bearing o-ring seal is missing from factory..what kind of a QC is that..