mark94tt
2012-06-09 20:31:00 UTC
What's odd about the part that I received is that the instructions are different from Oberon's website-- it doesn't mention anything about the ball bearing under the cap. It's clearly the Oberon part, but it appears to be an older version. Did an early version of the Oberon slave cylinder not come with a bearing?
I ended up installing the new slave and fully bleeding it and of course it 'drags' when you put it in gear with the clutch in. I assume I need this ball bearing or some kind of spacer to make it fully disengage.
Thoughts/words of wisdom greatly appreciated!
-Mark
bic_bicknell
2012-06-09 20:51:00 UTC
The same thing happened to me. If your Oberon unit doesn't have a ball bearing then it won't work. The ball bearing will be stuck in some grease inside the little plastic cover that came with the unit. When I got mine I took the cover off and threw it away not realising that the ball was stuck inside it. After many hours on this forum I eventually deduced what had happened, went to the bin and found the little cover and there was the ball. After refitting the slave unit with the ball everything worked like a dream and has done ever since.
Hope this is the answer you're looking for.
mark94tt
2012-06-09 21:22:00 UTC
Also, has anyone tried rebuilding the factory slave cylinder with a new o-ring?
No. 47
2012-06-09 21:41:00 UTC
AndersH
2012-06-09 22:13:00 UTC
It's just a bitch so bleed it, took me soo long
mark94tt
2012-06-09 22:54:00 UTC
http://www.oberon-performance.com/acata ... ER3%20.pdf
The instructions I received does not have a "NOTE" at the top and the list at the bottom only mentions the (2) crush washers and the (2) bolts.
Anyways, I went to my local hardware store and found ball bearings (to my pleasant surprise)! They were in inches, but 5/16" comes out to 7.94mm. I'll give this a shot and see if it works.
mark94tt
2012-06-09 23:21:00 UTC
I will try to connect with Oberon on Monday.
Jermo
2012-06-09 23:23:00 UTC
omky756
2012-06-10 00:11:00 UTC
the ball bearing greased and stuck in it's place...
For good measure..I also replace the backing plate...
I didn't need it...but I always figure aluminium over
plastic and won't fail down the road....
mark94tt
2012-06-10 00:54:00 UTC
MADDOG53
2012-06-10 01:05:00 UTC
omky756
2012-06-10 01:27:00 UTC
Post missing.
mark94tt
2012-06-10 02:48:00 UTC
Post missing.
bic_bicknell
2012-06-10 03:22:00 UTC
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15822&p=183602&hilit=+oberon#p183602
mark94tt
2012-06-23 00:00:00 UTC
Jermo
2012-06-23 00:20:00 UTC
mark94tt
2012-06-23 00:36:00 UTC
Thanks for the link.
Linga
2012-06-23 01:04:00 UTC
Post missing.
mark94tt
2012-06-23 05:19:00 UTC
The size that you're looking for is under the AS568 standard, size -021. I ordered a few in Viton and BUNA-N Nitrile. Both of these materials are good with hydraulic fluids and with dynamic sealing; the Viton o-ring has a higher temperature tolerance. They can be found at the following URL's:
AS568-021 Viton:
AS568-021 BUNA-N Nitrile:
The key to doing this properly is that you must thoroughly clean out your slave cylinder. If yours is in fact leaking, it's because the factory o-ring has started to disintegrate. I took the slave cylinder housing and boiled it in disherwasher detergent--an excellent cleaning agent that is only activated at high temp, hence the boiling (word to the wise, don't boil it in a pot that your significant other enjoys cooking dinner in) . For the "piston" I took a solvent soaked string and ran it through the groove where the old o-ring had been. Reassemble with new o-ring, install, bleed the system, and make sure it's working properly.
-Mark