I don't know how I managed without one for so long. Was using it again yesterday, reminded of how much I like it. Had to share:

http://store.motiveproducts.com/brembo- ... -p108.aspx

Used with this:

http://store.motiveproducts.com/single- ... hread=True

I also have the Yamaha/Suzuki (Tockico/Nissin reservoir) adapter, and others for the 4-wheeled appliances.

Makes this job soooo trival, and never air entrapped. Works so well, I also recently purchased:

http://store.motiveproducts.com/power-f ... -p129.aspx

Which also works great!

Not a shameless plug - I have no affiliation/association with this company, nor am I compensated in any way for these remarks.

I'm feeling a little naive right now, but I have to ask the question. How does it work?

That does sound easy.

I've had a motive bleeder for years. it was OK for the grocery getters but I always got a firmer pedal on my track car bleeding it the old fashion way.

on a bike with shorter lines it MIGHT work OK.

I see two problems:

1. you are pressurizing the fluid with air. if you have any bubbles in the fluid it'll compress....then expand later. take some care filling the canister. pour the fluid down along to sides to minimize bubbles. let the fluid rest for a while before pressuring.

2. fluid flow is too slow to dislodge air bubbles stuck in the system. the fact that you're going against gravity does not help. you get alot more velocity pumping the lever/pedal.

on a motorcycle where I can pull the lever with one hand and turn the bleed screw with the other it's also less work and clean up.

BTW, make sure the motive hoses are completely dry before storing away. the hoses degraded on mine and it bursted while pressurized, making a mess.

I use a large syringe and a length of rubber hose.
Open reservoir and top up.
Clean bleed nipple.
put hose on nipple
open bleed nipple and use the syringe to suck the brake fluid through.

does the best job I've ever achieved.
its fast and only one man operation
plus all the equipment is free or nearly free.

I missed this gem after my first reply.

so you're selling the merits of using garden pressure/pump spray to introduce pressured brake fluid through the reservior.

I know you'll dismiss my "opinions" and experiences so here I'll quote a couple of experts who has written books and have degrees in automotive engineering. google their names if you want a resume.

Carroll Smith
"So, you say, ”I’ll just run my hot rod down to my dealership or mechanic and ask them to replace the fluid with AP 550.” Two problems here. First of all they won’t have it and won’t know where to get it. Second and more serious (after all you could supply it yourself) all dealerships and most independent mechanics use pressure bleeders. These devices certainly speed up the process of brake bleeding, but by forcing the fluid through tiny orifices using pressurized air, any air left in the partially filled system will be forced into the fluid solution. Quadruple Damn!!!! "

James Walker (http://www.teamscr.com/about-james-walk ... er-jr.html) :
"Pressure bleeding on its own is not necessarily a bad thing, but there are several steps one must take to ensure that the bleed event will result in an air-free brake system.

When we talk about pressure bleeding, we are referring to the process in which we pour our brake fluid into a pressure vessel, hook up a pressure source, and run the now pressurized fluid directly into the master cylinder reservoir. One by one the caliper bleeder screws are opened to allow the pressurized fluid to flow through the system until all of the old fluid has been purged. Simple, right?

Well yes, but beware of imitations – not all pressure bleeders are created equal. The professional units (the type you can consider using) separate the pressurized brake fluid from the pressure source (air) using a flexible rubber diaphragm. In this fashion, the pressurized air is kept from forcing its way into the fluid. As we all know, air and fluid should be kept as far apart as possible.

This brings us to the imitations. There seem to be a rash of products available lately that claim to be pressure brake bleeders at a fraction of the cost of the professional units. Like most things that sound too good to be true, well, it’s exactly that.

Like the professional units, these imitations contain a pressure vessel into which new brake fluid is poured. However, in order to pressurize the fluid, an integral pump handle is cycled to build the pressure inside the vessel without any measures taken to separate the pressurized air from the fluid. For those of you who have ever bought a $19.95 do-it-yourself potted plant and bug sprayer from Home Depot you get the idea.

Of course, having pressurized air in contact with the brake fluid will certainly force the fluid through the system just as effectively as the high-zoot professional unit, but as an added bonus we are stuffing air into the brake fluid at the same time. Talk about an unwanted surprise!

While it may not be visible to the naked eye (air can actually entrain itself in the fluid as to be visually undetectable) it’s there right along with all of the nasty moisture trapped inside of it. This of course begs the question: if you are stuffing air and water contaminated fluid into your brake system, why even bother bleeding it in the first place?

Naturally there will be those who argue that the amount of air in question is not important enough to worry about, but think about this for a moment: nearly every automotive manufacturer stores their bulk brake fluid in large containers which are subjected to a constant VACUUM. Talk about an expensive process! If just storing your fluid under regular atmospheric conditions isn’t good enough to keep air and water out, just imagine what shoving 30psi worth of compressed air on top of it is doing.

The professional units can cost hundreds of dollars, and for good reason; unfortunately the cost keeps them beyond the reach of most of us normal folks. Your best bet is probably to get back in the driver’s seat and begin stroking the pedal with your foot again, but ultimately the choice is yours. "

on a motorcycle it can't get any easier to get a great bleed on your brake system with just a wrench, some tubing and a bottle.

you don't even need a helper since you can activate the lever and open the bleeder screw....provided you don't have a physical handicap.

if you insist on using a pressure bleeder, check out:

http://www.centurytool.net/2222_KD_Tool ... dt2222.htm

it features: Diaphragm separates air and fluid and a pressure relief valve prevents damage to the tank and brake systems by preventing excess air pressure.

you really don't want to pump more than 10-12psi through the fluid reservior.