Following my post about my SDR running like shit after refuelling looking for specific advice. Surely someone here has an SDR 08 on with Beru Ignition Coils and wil have changed the plugs ?
Basically how the fook do you get them out - this is becoming a real pain in the a** http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mv0onXhyLlE&feature=fvsr

... the KTM Service Manual indicates the process only with the carbs/TBs off ... not exactly convenient, but surely not the only way (?). Gotta love the irony: if one can't figure out how to remove them at that point, they probably shouldn't be putting any wrenches on their bike in the first place. In other words, not of much help.

In the service manual, it is implied that the carbs/TBs are removed anyway for the 15Km inspection to check/adjust the valve clearances ... and the Periodic Maintenance Schedule suggest spark plugs changed at this frequency (not greater). Which brings up the broader question: why change the plugs, OR are you at 15 Km?

I guess I'll have to find your original thread regarding the beast running poorly, and read it ...

EDIT: I read the thread, and just about every suggestion put forward seems more plausible than the spark plugs ... some (but not all) of which you've tried. Personally, the first thing I'd have done was get that PCIII out of the loop, followed by every fuel-system related check that folks had done that caused like problems. Will take a look at the "spark plug challenge" this evening.

Not sure if you have the motobox but if you dont you'll need to remove the airbox and hence throttle bodies to get the igition coils out I'd guess. It doesnt have to stay out just to the side so you can remove the coils.

When you do get them out make sure you measure them I think its 1-2 ohms between the two top points and 9-16k ohms between any of the two top points and the lower one (ie the one that goes on the spark plug).

I had one that rattled when you shook it. They shouldnt rattle.

EDIT: Sorry mate just read your thread and not sure other than others have said just pull harder? The tip is rubber that goes over the top of the spark plug.

Cheers for replies - hopefully will see what a Workshop manual says about this. As mentioned when I spoke to the mech at the KTM Dealer (who was really helpful BTW), he seemed to think they've only had one SDR in before that he remembers doing this on and it was a real struggle. TBH, i amazed after trawling the net i can't seem to fine this info. I wanted to initially get them out to check just becuase of the issue I've had. Moreover the fact that the bike's cranking over now, but not firing, I thought it would be easy to whip the plugs out and crank it over to check for a spark........silly me

Check out the pic which hopefully gives an indication of how much of a bar steward it is to get the rear one out (not that the front's going to be much easier)

I'm a mate who is an electronic engineer to check over sensors, relays etc to make sure everything ok probably next we due to work commitments, so will see how its goes.

Don't suppose anyone has a list of things to work through on the electrical side, so I can eliminate the most obvious things first? ( I can't see anything wrong visually with wiring and I checked the fuses). The bike done about 6 k dry miles and hasn't been subject to our crap weather and road salt to corrode stuff.

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looking at the photo the coil on the top is a seperate part to the plug cap itself, can you not remove the coil pack from the cap first and then pull out the plug cap

I think that you have to unbolt the valve cover, with the coil pack bolted in position, and adjust/angle the position of the cover to allow the coil pack to be removed clear of the frame strut ie juggle..........................

Ahh...........never tried that way - i unbolted the coil then the camgear cover.

Having coffee and doughnuts just now , will give that method a go shortly then report back!

Black, no sugar.

I'll put the kettle on.............at least I can manage that .....just

Tried this plus a bit of in, out shake it all about too and the littel fecker still doesn't want to play. Basically it's all tighter than a tight thing. Also doubled checked the coil per TLS_russ comment ( just in case )the top part come off the coil but all looks v solid to me and not possible to split apart. Beru's website is a much use as a choclate fireguard for info!

Just checked with Paul, the ex-Bracken mechanic, and, as I say, unbolting and juggling the cam cover, with the coil pack in it's normal position, until the cam cover is in a position to allow you to pull out the coil pack past the frame member is the way to do it - more coffee required?

Yep its a real bad design................... how hard would it have been to make the coil pack and cap as two parts, the cap unscrew from the coil pack with an o`ring seal to stop water ingress

Suppose like most designs DIY maintenance is low priority over function.

No47 Cheers for that, much appreciated - confirms what my local KTM Mech said. Will have a shifty tomorrow. Think I need something a bit stronger than coffee

You'll need a new cam cover gasket as well............

If that really is the case it's the worst design ever! I know the plugs only get changed every 9k miles with a valve check but still you may want to get at the plug for another reason. Who ever thought that was a good idea needs the fooking sack.

I cannot imagine (or see from the photos) that the SDR is any different to the SD in this regard. I was able to remove my coil pack without issue when I changed my plugs at 10K.

Weird.

I just tried removing the rear coil/plug wire from my 08 SDR and had the same trouble as others. Removing the rear shock wasn't something I wanted to do because I was afraid of supporting the bike unevenly and knocking it over while up on front and rear stands.

To get the coil pack out without removing the shock, I removed the valve cover bolts. I then lifted the valve cover enough to get a flat screwdriver with cloth on the tip between the valve cover and head to pry up the sleeve that is pushed into the head. Once the sleeve is worked loose, you can adjust the angle with the loose valve cover and the coil will come out relatively easy. Be sure not to accidentally use the cam as a fulcrum for the screwdriver.

My R has the same large BERU coils that were shown earlier in the post, and besides removing the shock or removing the coil the way I described above, I don't think there is another way to do it unless you remove the engine. Since I'm checking my valves, the cover was coming off anyway.

Next is the front valve cover... I hope it is easier. I'm about to try it and see how it goes.

Aaron

no need to remove the shock just the top bolt

Just done this, for myself this time, to replace the rear plug and coil (again....................) - unbolt the coil pack but leave in position, unbolt the cam cover, pull the the cylindrical plug shaft up out of the head with pliers, move the cam cover and shaft forward slightly and pull out the coil pack.

Unbolting the top bolt and moving the rear shock would not have been enough space given the amount of weld around the diagonal strut bracing.

Not happy, though, that there's no plug socket in the toolkit and my long 14mm socket isn't thin walled enough to fit.

Edit - covered elsewhere, I think, but added here for completeness - 14mm 3/8" drive works,14mm 1/2" drive does not.

PS - question for those who've removed the OE air box - what stops the throttle cables rubbing through the wiring harness at the headstock?

I have filter pods with retained lower OE air box half and throttle cable guide,

S I've had no problems with the cables rubbing the wires but then I don't do the miles you do and as for the cam cover plug tube removal or shift to get the plug out it seems the o rings and cam cover gaskets don't like being removed and refitted as mine will leak quite easily if removed and refitted bad design