No. 47
2013-10-22 19:23:00 UTC
Just bought Cheesie's spare SDR engine - not needed immediately so thinking gas flow, blue printing, etc - any thoughts re these and other mods?
jjlester_74
2013-10-22 20:29:00 UTC
R2 pistons
Tornato camshaft
Tornato camshaft
CEREC1
2013-10-22 20:33:00 UTC
Post missing.
No. 47
2013-10-22 20:44:00 UTC
Yep, saw this viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17535
CEREC1
2013-10-22 21:03:00 UTC
Post missing.
No. 47
2013-10-22 21:12:00 UTC
Ta, forgot about this one even though I posted and search only through up the unresolved acrimonious end.........
CEREC1
2013-10-22 21:20:00 UTC
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No. 47
2013-10-22 21:28:00 UTC
Hence, perhaps, gas flowing and blue printing only.
CEREC1
2013-10-22 21:34:00 UTC
Post missing.
Colonel_Klinck
2013-10-22 22:05:00 UTC
I didn't Dyno pull before and after so it's really impossible to know. Another member did though, he lived in the York area but I can't remember his username. His bike was dyno'd by Bob Farnham, then gas flowed and dyno'd again. He gained about 6-8hp if I remember rightly. Price was £220-ish for gas flow. Tbh I think Dave did too many things at once.
Linga
2013-10-22 23:11:00 UTC
I've been doing some hefty research into theses things and there are a few optins I'm going to try.
The most major one being.... DON'T get your heads hand flowed. No-one who's anyone gets it done like that anymore.
Computer controlled will give the best results every time.
The bottom end is too heavy in these and hence when over revved they detonate.
I'm working with a guy here to develop a new lighter crank to support stroking and Ti rods for more spin for next years project.
Also ceramic and polished bearings throughout, I had a measurable gain with just changing wheel bearings, but as it was a one off I did't bother posting it.
The most major one being.... DON'T get your heads hand flowed. No-one who's anyone gets it done like that anymore.
Computer controlled will give the best results every time.
The bottom end is too heavy in these and hence when over revved they detonate.
I'm working with a guy here to develop a new lighter crank to support stroking and Ti rods for more spin for next years project.
Also ceramic and polished bearings throughout, I had a measurable gain with just changing wheel bearings, but as it was a one off I did't bother posting it.
Linga
2013-10-23 05:42:00 UTC
Post missing.
No. 47
2013-10-24 01:51:00 UTC
Yeah mate, Nigel is a sweet dude and I was hoping to catc him at the nationals when he comes over, but work has taken me.
As always with research, everything is up in the air until I split the cases and weigh everything up. Was even thinking getting the undersides of the pistons machined like the boys at wiseco and cp do... Just options until the build starts in January
As always with research, everything is up in the air until I split the cases and weigh everything up. Was even thinking getting the undersides of the pistons machined like the boys at wiseco and cp do... Just options until the build starts in January
CEREC1
2013-10-26 15:07:00 UTC
'tis a thing of beauty...............
................feels like more than 58kg, though.
................feels like more than 58kg, though.
No. 47
2013-10-26 16:08:00 UTC
Post missing.
MrZ32
2013-10-26 16:24:00 UTC
Not decided yet - probably just leave 'new' one as is, but minus SAS and plus slipper clutch, Oberon slave, etc, ie as per current engine, and swop out now or when current engine dies/breaks and then replace and rebuild current engine to upgraded spec - waiting until current engine breaks may prove more expensive, of course.
Whichever engine is upgraded, unlikely to go to the extent the race boys are though 'cos it's still primarily a road bike for me.
Whichever engine is upgraded, unlikely to go to the extent the race boys are though 'cos it's still primarily a road bike for me.
41KS
2013-10-27 01:56:00 UTC
It does not take much to make an engine stand.
If you look in the KTM LC8 tool section you can see one.
You can build the whole bike up on the stand minus wheels.
A bud built his from 1/2 square tube.
I made one out of 1 inch square tube when I replaced a bent frame.
The frame (26 lbs) was hinged on the engine, not the engine lifted into the frame.
I placed the rear mounting bolt into the engine and swung the frame into place.
Easy to move the engine around with the stand.
Be a said day to see the motor fall over and break something.
My Husky engine fell out of the frame fell a busted a compression release shaft.
If you look in the KTM LC8 tool section you can see one.
You can build the whole bike up on the stand minus wheels.
A bud built his from 1/2 square tube.
I made one out of 1 inch square tube when I replaced a bent frame.
The frame (26 lbs) was hinged on the engine, not the engine lifted into the frame.
I placed the rear mounting bolt into the engine and swung the frame into place.
Easy to move the engine around with the stand.
Be a said day to see the motor fall over and break something.
My Husky engine fell out of the frame fell a busted a compression release shaft.
No. 47
2013-10-27 06:25:00 UTC
Post missing.
No. 47
2013-10-27 11:39:00 UTC
Hi No. 47, congrats on great purchase!
Sorry for a slightly OT, but knowing you have high mileage SD I take a chance and ask about suspension reliability:
1. Do you have still original forks and shock (or how many times you have serviced or changed you suspension over time) ?
2. Does it get noticeably "loose" over some period of time or is it subjectively stays more or less the same as new over 20, 30, 40K miles?
Sorry for a slightly OT, but knowing you have high mileage SD I take a chance and ask about suspension reliability:
1. Do you have still original forks and shock (or how many times you have serviced or changed you suspension over time) ?
2. Does it get noticeably "loose" over some period of time or is it subjectively stays more or less the same as new over 20, 30, 40K miles?
No. 47
2013-10-27 12:22:00 UTC
To me, both front and rear feel as good at circa 70k miles as they did when 'new' to me - probably not the case, of course, as rear not touched at all and the front only re replacement seals (twice ) since HM Racing waved their magic wand over both.
Will probably refresh both when new engine fitted.
Will probably refresh both when new engine fitted.
No. 47
2013-10-29 14:41:00 UTC
This photo shows the stand with engine for frame replacement.
No. 47
2013-10-29 16:04:00 UTC
Very neat - will do something like this but in timber.
Colonel_Klinck
2013-11-02 16:16:00 UTC
Two stands, two different functions.
The larger stand was made to replace the bike frame and is very stable.
The smaller stand was made to work on the motor and works well for bench use.
A design of both into one would be the small stand with removable outriggers to keep the stand stable when time to build the bike up with frame.
Cheers !
The larger stand was made to replace the bike frame and is very stable.
The smaller stand was made to work on the motor and works well for bench use.
A design of both into one would be the small stand with removable outriggers to keep the stand stable when time to build the bike up with frame.
Cheers !
No. 47
2014-03-26 20:04:00 UTC
Bottom end of rear timing chain death rattle, base gasket leaks and apparent power loss signalling engine swop out sometime soon - will be replacing loom and exhaust pipe work at the same time - any recommendations for a local bead, or similar, blaster for the pipes?
Colonel_Klinck
2014-03-26 20:07:00 UTC
Post missing.
No. 47
2014-03-26 20:40:00 UTC
+75k miles - not really bad, just inevitable, news - probably good for another 5k miles but the rattle ain't as ''endearing' as my Ducati clutch - have replaced cam drive sprocket needle bearing, tensioner (again) but no improvement, cam chain seems OK so just guessing that it's at the bottom end - sounds just like a loose exhaust and kicks in at 2-3 temperature bars.
No. 47
2014-03-26 21:50:00 UTC
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Aphex
2014-03-26 21:55:00 UTC
Doesn't sound like classic cam chain slap.
No. 47
2014-04-11 17:54:00 UTC
Colonel_Klinck
2014-04-11 18:33:00 UTC
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No. 47
2014-04-17 12:08:00 UTC
Post missing.