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No. 47

No. 47

2018-01-24 19:54:00 UTC

So I've owned the bike for about 5 years now and last year decided I needed a little more excitement in my life, you know, a bit more fear to the daily commute. Thought to myself, what's more frightening than the thought "I did the reassembly on these things myself" when you're carving a mountain road? Bike's an '08 990 with about 40k on the clock

So with that, I've got a bunch of shit I'm taking apart and looking for suggestions on some of them.

- Rear cush drive bushings have a pretty decent amount of play and a nasty clunk/lurching while riding sometimes. The pins look easy but I've worked with bushings this style before and they can sometimes be a right cunt. I don't have access to a press big enough anymore so I debated fabbing up a puller of some kind but how is everyone doing these without fooking the wheel? I thought maybe some sch. 80 PVC pipe instead of metal to protect the finish as much as possible.

- Cam chain tensioners are noisy for sometimes a bit more time than I'd like on startup and have an occasional clatter at hot idle. The rear looks easy enough but a quick glance the front seemed a bitch. Best to pull the rad or am I just not seeing it the right way? Also any specific procedure for it? In my mind I think I can just get the engine rotated a bit in the forward direction to put the slack on the tensioner rails and plunk the new ones in.

Anything else that's good to look at while I'm in there? Clutch basket looked to be in good shape from the outside but should I take it out and inspect it all anyways? Water pump was ok but I had it apart so replaced it with the normal OEM kit (had a bit of a fight with the second bearing but otherwise not bad). Chain and sprockets about 10k km and in good shape. Wheels are off for new tyres right now so I figured I'd toss in all new bearings at the same time.

Aphex

Aphex

2018-01-24 20:30:00 UTC

Not had to replace cush drive bushings yet so cannot comment.

Front cam chain tensioner - ‘tis possible to replace without loosening/removing rad but I threaded the casing trying to fit new one so would recommend doing so - rear is a doddle - no need to rotate engine for either.

New wheel bearings and seals - good idea - suggest steering head bearings also.

For me, key preventative maintenance includes front brake calipers, all electrical wiring particularly within headlamp unit, main bundle around steering head and at rear of tank/front of seat, electrical wiring connectors particularly BGC and in and around battery and reg/rec area, and one or two electrical components such as replacing OE reg/rec with Mosfet and replacing battery at start of winter each year.

Upgrade OE clutch slave with Oberon unit including metal, in lieu of plastic OE, spacer.

Drain fuel tank and wash out all sediment, and replace fuel pump filters.

Drain coolant, flush out cooling system with cold water hose pipe both ways and dismantle and clean out crud in thermostat unit.

Drain oil, flush out tank (at least) and replace all filters.

Replace throttle body rubbers.

Assuming that my experiences with ‘08 SDR valves not relevant to ‘’08 SDs.......

DukeNukem999

DukeNukem999

2018-01-24 21:34:00 UTC

Link for cheap fuel filter (KTM wants both your nuts for them): http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/f ... on.874262/

MOSFET reg/rec: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catal ... -Rectifier

I've purchased filters from gefr and currently have that same reg/rec on my bike. All good bits of kit.

No. 47

No. 47

2018-01-25 00:05:00 UTC

Post missing.

Aphex

Aphex

2018-01-25 19:53:00 UTC

Nowt but what I’ve picked up from here, from Paul R. and from my own experience.

Should add that I had to replace swing arm bearings, TB and ECU circa 50k miles and you should perhaps give serious thought to replacing cam chains (and valve assemblies?) given Klinck’s experience - depends on definition of preventative maintenance, I guess - most of what I have done is because it needed to be done when things broke....