I bought a bike that has a problem:
When engine gets hot it starts to backfire on steady gas.
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwoawKJWkYo
I have:
-Bought a new battery
-Tested the stator idle 20v goes up when i put throttle
-Cleaned the big grey socket and everything near the batterybox
Engine runs nice but when temperature gets to the point that fan start to cool the popping starts as you see on the video.
If I stop and let it cool the problem is gone and starts when temp rises to fan starting point.
Bike has Leovince, SAS active, O2 active.
Could the mapping be the reason?
If not what?
Thanks
Kaz
2014-03-05 12:05:00 UTC
dirty irving
2014-03-05 12:47:00 UTC
Check plugs and coils and associated wiring.
No. 47
2014-03-05 13:05:00 UTC
How did you clean the BGC? A little bit of moisture in the back of the connector can cause this. I flushed it with WD-40 and then used a hair dryer. At my bike the WD-40 shrinked the seal in the BGC so maby not the best solution.
I aslo had this problem when i was fitting PCV to my SDR when the wiring was wrong, so also do as DMacL said.
I aslo had this problem when i was fitting PCV to my SDR when the wiring was wrong, so also do as DMacL said.
ktmguy
2014-03-05 13:53:00 UTC
I opened and cleaned the big grey socket, no help.
How can I test the coils? Multimeter?
Or the wiring?
I have ordered the tune ecu wire so next week I have that helping.
The bike has been standing in garage from 2010 to this day because of this problem on the previous owner.
It has 61000km on meter.
How can I test the coils? Multimeter?
Or the wiring?
I have ordered the tune ecu wire so next week I have that helping.
The bike has been standing in garage from 2010 to this day because of this problem on the previous owner.
It has 61000km on meter.
No. 47
2014-03-05 19:11:00 UTC
I took the coils of and tested with multimeter, 1.9ohm both.
I couldn get the sparkplugs out because I didn have the right tool.
Maybe I should order new coils just in case...
I couldn get the sparkplugs out because I didn have the right tool.
Maybe I should order new coils just in case...
No. 47
2014-03-05 19:22:00 UTC
It certainly sounds like it's ignition related, it's possible that the insulation in the coils breaks down a little when hot and doesn't provide strong enough spark. Bear in mind I have limited experience with KTM engines, hopefully some of the more experienced members here will chime in also.
No. 47
2014-03-05 19:35:00 UTC
Maybe fuelling not spark,
Run it up to temperature again and release the tank cap in case there is a vacuum present.
Long shot but you might as well try before ordering more parts ?
Run it up to temperature again and release the tank cap in case there is a vacuum present.
Long shot but you might as well try before ordering more parts ?
Colonel_Klinck
2014-03-05 20:06:00 UTC
Based on my experience, probably a coil pack and probably the rear - use Tune ECU to check coil packs with engine hot and running or swop out one at a time with a new one - only have spare SDR coil pack,s which are different from yours, otherwise would send to you to try before you buy - where are you?
The Gin Reaper
2014-03-05 20:47:00 UTC
Long Shot. Key switch & or Kick Stand.
I removed and cleaned my 04 KTM Adventure key switch to fix a miss. Same type of switch gear. Lube was rock hard inside.
I also had a miss in the Kick Stand that was fixed on the bike with carb cleaner , WD-40 and compressed air.
Take care with the Key switch. It is not a serviceable component per KTM. Springs and ball bearing will be flying about.
I removed and cleaned my 04 KTM Adventure key switch to fix a miss. Same type of switch gear. Lube was rock hard inside.
I also had a miss in the Kick Stand that was fixed on the bike with carb cleaner , WD-40 and compressed air.
Take care with the Key switch. It is not a serviceable component per KTM. Springs and ball bearing will be flying about.
No. 47
2014-03-06 08:24:00 UTC
Post missing.
Colonel_Klinck
2014-03-06 09:37:00 UTC
I think the bike has a bad negative connection somewhere. The fan draws a lot of current and when it kicks in it starves the rest.
Check negative connections to ECU, near starter motor and the battery box. Sometimes the wire breaks in the heatshrink near the connector or it could be just corrosion.
Good luck!
Check negative connections to ECU, near starter motor and the battery box. Sometimes the wire breaks in the heatshrink near the connector or it could be just corrosion.
Good luck!
Colonel_Klinck
2014-04-04 20:17:00 UTC
Post missing.
No. 47
2014-04-04 22:03:00 UTC
TuneECU is going to be your friend here. Hopefully it will show you the problem.
Colonel_Klinck
2014-04-05 05:38:00 UTC
One thing I noticed last night when I was at the garage that the TPS shows 0.79v at idle.
I read some post that like 0.6v is the right?
If I want to adjust it, is it the front or rear potentiometer that is the correct one?
Thank all for helping!
I read some post that like 0.6v is the right?
If I want to adjust it, is it the front or rear potentiometer that is the correct one?
Thank all for helping!
Bert
2014-04-05 15:44:00 UTC
Here is what my 05 reads through TuneECU.
Cold, not running: .77-.78 Right on edge.
WOT, cold. 3.75-3.76 Right on the edge there too.
If I remember correctly mine idles .68 hot.
Remember that the TPS will read much higher when when cold due to the idle control wanting to raise the cold idle.
Cold, not running: .77-.78 Right on edge.
WOT, cold. 3.75-3.76 Right on the edge there too.
If I remember correctly mine idles .68 hot.
Remember that the TPS will read much higher when when cold due to the idle control wanting to raise the cold idle.
SDNerd
2014-04-05 17:57:00 UTC
Did you do the 15 min reset after switching off O2 sensors?
No. 47
2014-04-06 14:07:00 UTC
Post missing.
No. 47
2014-04-06 14:19:00 UTC
Rectifier regulator by the sounds of things. Measure across the battery and rev the bike. It should not go above 14-ish volts.
No. 47
2014-04-06 15:47:00 UTC
Post missing.
No. 47
2014-04-06 16:40:00 UTC
Post missing.
bazz21
2014-04-06 17:48:00 UTC
I think ill buy a original part so there is less room for user error...