I thought I would replace the stock slave and the support plate as preventative maintenance on my '07 SD. Replaced first with KTMtwins Sigutech slave. Bled from both ends, with solid feel. Clutch would't release. Re did the job 3 times with same result. Checked to make sure I wasn't missing the ball and measured the depth to the ball on both. The stock was 3mm shallower than the so I thought that could be the problem. KTMtwins sent me a replacement that was the same depth as the stock OEM. Great service! Also ordered an Oberon with the support plate in aluminium to compare. I have replaced and bled all 3, including the OEM, and the clutch handle feels solid in it's normal travel range, bled the master cylinder each time as well made sure no bubbles coming from either end, even had it sit overnight and rebled, but no change. The clutch will not release. Checked to make sure the depth to the ball was the same in all of them. Bled on shop stand and on side stand to see if angles made any difference? I have done this on many other bikes, BMW, Aprillia etc with no problem, have also bled brakes etc. without any issues. What am I missing other than "leave well enough alone"!?

Assuming you still have the release rod in position:

Why did all of this start? Was it by any chance because the clutch was slipping? If so, are the thrust plate
and springs still as they should be? eg not loose or totally undone.

Did you get the pin through the rod back in place where it should be?

Is the spacer/support plate properly seated?

"Preventative maintenance"? So no problem with clutch release before replacing slave?

If you did have dragging clutch before swopping out slaves, check out clutch itself, obviously, and also play at lever - have had to replace clutch lever twice, one Hardparts and one OE, as pivot bushes were worn and therefore not fully actuating master piston.

Have you cleaned the Clutch Oil jet behind the front sprocket???
worked for me...could not change into higher gears...cleaned oil jet, changed fluid, bleed system...result

All of this started when I replaced the slave cylinder. Clutch was not slipping and was working normally. Decided to change slave to prevent being stranded as I often ride mountain roads alone. I did make sure the pin was at the proper angle to insure that the spacer and the aluminium replacement support plate would seat properly. There is no play with the slave tightened up and no apparent spaces between all of the components.

The clutch lever is aftermarket, but no problem with the OEM slave etc. prior to the change. OEM won't work now either? Is there something that might have come loose on the clutch side?

I have not cleaned the oil jet, but everything seemed normal before changing the slave. I didn't think it was a necessary when just changing or bleeding the clutch?

Ok. Lets just ignore the oil jet for the moment.

You say pressure feels Ok but clutch won't release. I assume you mean that when you pull the clutch lever it feels as though the
thing is working and when you release the lever the clutch doesn't engage the engine (it is slipping without drive). It is possible that you mean the
opposite in that the clutch doesn't spread the plates and thus never disengages. Which one is it?

You can differentiate between the two by engaging a gear and just pushing the bike. Does it move or doesn't it. If it doesn't then pull in the
clutch lever. What happens now? Either way you can confirm by removing the clutch-side cover and just looking.

I assume it the clutch works but when you release it sounds like you are saying that the thrust plate doesn't fall back and allow the clutch to engage. If
this is the case we need to find out why? I'd look to see if you have somehow bent the clutch rod and it is sticking in the sleeve. If
it isn't bent and doesn't return perhaps it is gummed up. The oil jet would help here. If the clutch is permanently disengaged
then you've missed out a component on the slave side such as the adapter spacer plate or the chain securing guide. Make sure you've got
both and that they are seated properly.

If the thrust plate is not activated then the problem is obviously over at the slave side.
Take it off and gently pull the lever a bit. Is the piston operating? If the piston is up against the circlip push it back in gently first but
keep an eye on overflow at the Master. If it is working as I assume then you've got to work out why the piston isn't pushing the thrust
rod when assembled. Make sure that the pin is not only in but is fitting into the corresponding groove in the adapter plate. It needs
to be turned slightly sometimes because if it isn't in the right place things won't seat properly.

Let us know the outcome of the series of steps.

What I mean by the clutch won't release is that if I place the trans in gear with the engine off and pull the clutch lever in, the rear wheel is still in gear and won't move. I've tried starting the motor in neutral to let it warm up thinking that after sitting for a while there is so much stiction in the clutch plates that they wouldn't release. When I pull the clutch lever in, and go to shift it into 1st, the engine cuts out before going into gear. If I leave the engine off, I can push the bike with the clutch lever in, but there is a LOT of clutch drag. I haven't removed the clutch side cover yet.

I hope this clears up what I meant to say happens, at least a little. When I mount the slave, it does seem that the slave cylinder is compressed when I tighten up the bolts which suggests that it should work? I'm not sure what I'm missing, so thanks for you comments and suggestions and keep them coming!

I had the exact same issue with my stock slave after doing some "preventative" bleeding of the clutch. I would suggest you try this... Fire up the bike in N, get rolling down an incline or get a buddy to push you, pop it in grear and ride it around a bit. Use the clutch and shift it up and down through a few gears to get some oil into the plates and see if it will start to work again for you.

Good Luck.

I know it's a bitch getting it bled out..
but I'm thinking you still have air in the line..
I bled mine both ways..and also with clutch lever in
(engaged) and then out (disengaged)
Even one little bubble will make it not work
correctly..
AND..be careful with that little bleed valve
on the lever assy. You can break it off easily..

Bled from both directions. Had trouble keeping tube on bleed screw on slave. So removed slave and compressed the slave cylinder several times. Got quite a bit of air out of the M/C bleed screw. After 3 days of waiting several hours between bleed sessions I continue to have bubbles coming out of the bleed screw on the M/C when I compress the clutch and open the bleed screw. It seems OK when I stop, but then more air appears the next time. I have a tube from the bleed screw to the resevoir long enough to make sure it's below the surface of the fluid in the resevoir. Is there a chance that my master cylinder needs a rebuild? Didn't have a problem before?

Last but not least, there is some drag when I put the trans in gear with the engine off. If I start it up in neutral, when I go to put it in gear the gears grind a little and then the engine shuts down??? Can't start it in gear. The clutch switch below the master cylinder was working before I started all this? Is this switch the issue?

Starting with your last question first. I bet you've got the side stand down when you are trying all this. You can't put
the bike into gear with the side stand down as the motor cuts (safety feature).
Now back to the clutch. You've definitely got an air leak. Given that all this started when you did preventative
maintenance and then a new slave my feeling is that it will be down that end. My bet is that it'll be either the nipple or
the seal at the brake line connector. I guess it is also possible that in all of your mucking about you have cracked the brake line.

Where is Three Rivers CA?

Just outside the south entrance to Sequoia National Park, 30 miles east of Visalia, in the Central Valley. I'm actually 6 miles up a canyon from Three Rivers itself!

Oh, sorry,can't help ya.

Finally took it to the dealer after realizing there was an air leak I couldn't trace. Turns out the crush washers at the slave were leaking air, even though I replaced the old ones? LIve and learn.