Nickeluring
2008-07-15 19:55:00 UTC
There's the front TPS:
and the rear TPS:
They are the things with numbers printed in grey on them.
They're both on the RHS of the throttle bodies, sitting on one throttle body each.
The connectors are between the throttle bodies also on the RHS, each leading to a TPS.
The black connector is for the front TPS, and the white one is for the rear.
On the front connector (black), stick a pin or something similar next to the white or yellow cable (depending on which connecting piece you connect to, male or female) down hard to get contact. On the rear (white) you do the same, but stick the needle into the green/red or the yellow cable.
You might have to try a few times before you get a reading. Use a voltmeter to check the voltage. Put the ground on some none painted metallic part of the engine, and the positive end on one of the needles.
The ignition should be on.
The front should be set to 0.6 V, 0.56 - 0.64 is okay.
The rear should be set to 1.0 V.
If they're out, you loosen the little torx screw (T25) a little and turn the TPS slightly, adjust to correct values.
According to the book, the front should be set while the engine is running at normal temperature on idle. The rear should be set with the engine off, but ignition on.
Nickeluring
2008-07-16 11:10:00 UTC
Post missing.
weeksy
2008-07-16 13:15:00 UTC
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the-bunker
2008-07-16 15:25:00 UTC
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Nickeluring
2008-07-16 16:08:00 UTC
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Nickeluring
2008-07-16 16:15:00 UTC
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Nickeluring
2008-07-16 16:21:00 UTC
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Nickeluring
2008-07-16 16:25:00 UTC
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Nickeluring
2008-08-03 16:20:00 UTC
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Silverback
2008-08-03 21:33:00 UTC
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TheJoker
2008-08-04 17:09:00 UTC
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Silverback
2008-08-04 19:44:00 UTC
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TheJoker
2008-08-04 19:56:00 UTC
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Silverback
2008-08-04 20:26:00 UTC
If there's any info you need that you reckon I might be able to help you with - just give us a yell.
TheJoker
2008-08-04 20:55:00 UTC
it is real easy and I can have a 1 hour turn around from start to finish,
if you need help ask but no TB disassembly necessary or recommended.
leave the throttle cables hooked up and suspend the TB's with a wire, easy to remove now for me.
Silverback
2009-03-03 09:10:00 UTC
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the-bunker
2009-03-03 10:18:00 UTC
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Silverback
2009-03-04 20:33:00 UTC
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TheJoker
2009-03-04 20:38:00 UTC
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Zenbiker
2010-07-30 22:11:00 UTC
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samba
2010-08-10 11:56:00 UTC
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ktmguy
2010-08-11 08:44:00 UTC
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samba
2010-08-17 11:30:00 UTC
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samba
2010-08-17 14:03:00 UTC
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MrZ32
2010-08-17 14:09:00 UTC
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larryf8
2010-08-17 14:14:00 UTC
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Vortex155
2011-07-28 07:03:00 UTC
I was wondering if you could stick up the photos again as they seem to have been removed or maybe its my computer. You have started a very interesting and helpful post.
Sonic.
larryf8
2011-07-28 08:57:00 UTC
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MrK
2012-05-10 05:44:00 UTC
Previously, with different maps tried, even the recent one, i have experienced an erratic high idle of 2k-2.5k and at times on re-start, rpms would drop way down low to 1k and sometimes stall on take-off. racked my brains for the past 2 weeks, not to mention the difficulty riding on mountain passes where rpms would rise even when the throttle is released so i would normally pull the clutch in and apply the brakes to avoid overshooting the curve...oh my.
Now things are looking good and turning up daisies again. can't wait to get on the saddle for the mountains. 2 days cruising around with short blasts showed the new settings to be stable and fun to ride...
cheers and thanks for all the help and patience guys...to tom and alain for such a wonderfull tool to work with!
larry
Sarasota_Steve
2012-05-13 09:27:00 UTC
Col.Klinck got a nice topic on that one in technical
cheers.