Twisted Jester
Post missing.
Superdan
Post missing.
Twisted Jester
if it's the one for the old shape I have fitted one, the only difficult bit was drilling out the anti tamper bolts on the ignition lock.
samba
Post missing.
Twisted Jester
Sounds like a bit of a pain, I take it it's a single bolt clamp then.
Last time I did a set of forks was on my NC24, I wheeled the front wheel on top of a trolley jack and held onto the bike and front brake while my mate jacked it up and then hooked straps round the yoke from his garage ceiling beams.
The overall result was basically sound but balancing the front wheel on a trolley jack is not recommended for the initial hoisting, I got away with it up and down but it's quite precarious balncing on there.
You could quite easily use one of those metal car ramp things to get the wheel off the floor while you or a mate straps it up and then you can both lift the bike slightly and kick the ramp out and then slowly lower while the straps take the tension.
Of course though the easiest way is to find somebody with a front headstock stand and borrow it which is what I'd do, or just buy one anyway.
Once the forks are no longer compressed and the front wheel is removed you can just undo the upper and lower yoke clamps and slide the fork out to put your clamp on and then slide it back in to the same position you started and tighten everything back up again.
It's not that difficult with a decent stand in the front.
I'm assuming from what you said about needing to remove the forks that the clamp goes between the top and bottom yokes so you'd just need to slide it out far enough to pop it on and then slide it back down again
Last time I did a set of forks was on my NC24, I wheeled the front wheel on top of a trolley jack and held onto the bike and front brake while my mate jacked it up and then hooked straps round the yoke from his garage ceiling beams.
The overall result was basically sound but balancing the front wheel on a trolley jack is not recommended for the initial hoisting, I got away with it up and down but it's quite precarious balncing on there.
You could quite easily use one of those metal car ramp things to get the wheel off the floor while you or a mate straps it up and then you can both lift the bike slightly and kick the ramp out and then slowly lower while the straps take the tension.
Of course though the easiest way is to find somebody with a front headstock stand and borrow it which is what I'd do, or just buy one anyway.
Once the forks are no longer compressed and the front wheel is removed you can just undo the upper and lower yoke clamps and slide the fork out to put your clamp on and then slide it back in to the same position you started and tighten everything back up again.
It's not that difficult with a decent stand in the front.
I'm assuming from what you said about needing to remove the forks that the clamp goes between the top and bottom yokes so you'd just need to slide it out far enough to pop it on and then slide it back down again
samba
on a related note...the WP steering damper on my new bike (55 plate) wobbles around its fixing, though it's solid in the axis in which it actually operates (side to side).
I've never had a steering damper before so don't know if it's supposed to wobble like this. Are the fixings bearings or something???
I've never had a steering damper before so don't know if it's supposed to wobble like this. Are the fixings bearings or something???
Twisted Jester
Post missing.
Twisted Jester
Unless the forks were bent the yokes will be straight by the time you've done up the clamps, plus you won't be removing the other fork so that will hold everything in line while you work on the other one anyway.
The scotts is simple as it just bolts to the top of the risers and the tank bolt.
The LSL steering damper clamp fits to the top of the forks and the tank bolt and uses a double bolt clamp according to the pictures I just looked at so no need to remove the forks.
Also available in gunmetal
The scotts is simple as it just bolts to the top of the risers and the tank bolt.
The LSL steering damper clamp fits to the top of the forks and the tank bolt and uses a double bolt clamp according to the pictures I just looked at so no need to remove the forks.
Also available in gunmetal