Clutch removal question.

So I'm going to pull my clutch assembly out and was looking at the service manual which states:



Now since I'm not pulling the engine out, do I still need to do this to remove the pinion? I've recently had the pressure plate off to inspect the fibers and steels. However I was unable to remove the push rod with the tools I had at the time.

No, ypu don't need to remove inner clutch casing or lock the engine - buy a clutch locking tool though,if you don't have one, or just lock rear wheel against swinging arm with a piece of wood when removing/replacing hub and basket.

Can't access video.

Sorry about that, set it to public.

Still getting error message

Try this link then,

I've opened this on other computers and it works.

Can anyone see this video I posted?

Yep I can see both the video in your post and the link to it in the following post.
Just like you I am waiting to find out if this is normal behavior BUT it sure does look sus
Keep us posted mate.

Comrades: I honestly can't remember whether this is normal despite the fact that I've done it several times. My thinking however, is what was it like before the plates and the springs were released? I'm thinking that maybe the plates and springs hold it all in place and the slop you are seeing is just the tolerance that will eventually allow the plates to separate and spin freely. Without pulling mine apart it's a bit hard to remember.

EDIT: I've just had a look at some old photo's and I think the plates do act as a spacer that keeps the inner and outer cages concentric. There are plates that engage with the grooves on the spline and the the outer castellations. Just do a quick trial assembly and make sure you get the order correct. Good luck.

Just pulled cover off my old 65k miles engine to compare - no hub fitted and there's similar movement but far less than yours, I'm afraid - as above, though, suggest you put clutch back together and see if same degree of movement is still there.

Does the hub and/or shaft move also?

The hub doesn't move.

My concern is the clutch si not fully disengaging, sloppy/slappy engagement I'm feeling 1mm from the bar to about 15mm then there is a dead spot. Once the lever is close to being fully released the clutch engages again but smoothly this time.

OEM slave and OEM lever have been installedo nthe bike and clutch has been fully bled.

I'm going measure the stack to make sure my plates aren't worn after 30k miles and that my steels aren't warped.

There's not much movement at all with the clutch plates reinstalled, along with the pressure plate and springs.

How have you guys removed the push rod cap? Mine is really on there and I don't want to damage anything when trying to remove it to check the basket/backing plate/dampening springs.

Don't try to remove push rod cap - remove locking pin at slave end and then pull out push rod from clutch side.

The locking pin is the horizontal pin that sits in the push rod and in the slave housing correct? #31 here



Here is a quick video of the slappy/jingle noise my clutch is making partially through the lever throw. This only happens for a small portion of the throw, the clutch grabs and bit and makes this sound, as the lever is let out further it feels like the clutch disengages and near the end of the throw it engages smoothly without issue.

Pulled the large clutch cover off. left my 14mm allen at home so I can't rotate the crank to fully remove the basket but I can already tell the basket is toast. I'm not even sure what's holding the basket to the primary gear.

Anyways now looking for a basket. There was one on ebay with only 6k miles but I slept on it and it's gone now

When I had my clutch out to replace gear selector spring with a factory pro spring(135,000kms)I noticed a lot of slop with the clutch busket and had similar concerns.I measured the fibre and disc pack which was well in spec,so bolted all back together(I have a STM slipper clutch)and every thing is fine.Clutch makes a little rattle here and there but as long as It's doing it's job I would'nt worry.The biggest problem with these clutches is the useless OEM slave unit.You don't realise how bad it is until you replace it with a good aftermarket one(I use an Oberon unit)and a good bleed job with a syringe from the slave upwards and a final bleed at the master cylinder.When you slide the clutch busket back on the shaft,care must be taken to line up the gear drive on the back of the busket with the oil pump gear.The oil pump gear is as strong as a biscuit and can brake real easy if you are clumsy with the alignment.Don't ask me how I know.The oil pump gear was latter up dated to a stronger unit.Just turned over 155,000kms and the clutch is working perfectly but I clutchless shift up and down a lot of the time.Cheers.

So the rivets pulled out of the basket. This might be something to check if you guys are having excessive rattling, my bike has 30,000 miles.

link in case embedded video doesn't work.

some rattle is normal. My bike got much louder over a short period of time, it wont hurt to check and it's actually not that big of a job to pull it apart.

Here is what the slop was allowing to happen (this is where all the drain plug shavings we're coming from). As you can see the rivets have lost a bit of material as has the backing plate.

Ah comrade Aphex! If we go all the way back to the original post with the workshop photo's we can see the three rivets. In your photo's you never strip back and actually undo that bastard nut that holds basket in place. Can we assume that your original question of whether you have to remove the inner casing somehow got confused with do you undo the bastard nut? It appears that if you had you would have seen one or more loose rivets from the basket side. Is that correct? All would have been obvious.

Yes you guessed it - I know that even using a rattle gun the bastard nuts are sometimes hard to get off other than by splitting them Fortunately, replacements are quite cheap.

Correct, the top rivet and the bottom right rivet have backed out significantly and the heads are now sitting below the face of the basket.

From looking at your pictures I am wondering if my basket is in the beginning stages of rivets backing out. Mine seems to be intermittent, 12 miles to work this morning nice 60 degree ride I didn't notice it at all, on the way home it was clacking, 85 degrees out and more slow traffic temp read 3 more bars.

Your thread has me thinking about it more for sure, I agree with jmann probably better to just bite the bullet and get a complete OEM basket.That will be my plan when the time comes.

This website has the entire assembly (basket, primary gear, springs and backing plate) for $375 which is the cheapest I've seen it unless you're in the industry and can get some kind of deal (dealer cost for this item is $277).





You'll also need to sacrifice a couple of fibers and steels to hold the backet and innerhub while you remove that bastard nut, or get a tool (can be had from EBC for <$20).

Follow up:

I received my new basket today. Here are some pics of what it's supposed to look like, notice the size of the rivets on the face of the basket.